I am getting twist in the machined face of boards that I run through
my 6" Delta 'Deluxe' jointer. I am fairly certain that my in/outfeed
table planes are parallel, having checked them thoroughly with a
reasonably decent straightedge.
The fence, on the other hand, appears to be warped. If I am close to a
reasonably-sized town (i.e., 150,000+ residents) should I expect to be
able to find someone to machine the face of the fence back to true?
What kind of business should I be looking for? Can I expect any
stability out of the cast iron fence after it is machined? Should I
dump this jointer after I get the fence milled and get something else
(love my granite-topped saw, maybe one of them there with the granite
You'll need somebody w/ a surface grinder big enough to handle the fence
length. That'll be a fairly sizable machine shop; unlikely to find
anybody in a small shop w/ a large enough capacity.
The stability after is a hard one -- depends on why it warped to begin
with and what it takes to get it flat again.
Also, it's possible there's a problem in the mounting that is causing it
to warp rather than the casting itself.
I had a 8" longbed Delta that was salvaged from pieces of a couple so I
got the parts for next to nothing. It cost half the price of a new one
30 years ago--probably would be more than a new one now.
Since the fence is not used in face jointing, it cannot be responsible
for the twist in your boards. If the tables are indeed coplaner and
your blades are all set at the same height and are parallel, then
you'll want to address your technique.
Just a couple of quick thoughts:
1. If you're face jointing and getting "twist", I would suspect that
your knives are not set even across. Have you checked them?
2. If this a new phenomena, then I would doubt it's your technique but
just in case, be sure the pressure on the board is only on the outfeed
side past the knives. If not, what you're calling twist may be just
plain old cupping due to poor technique.
3. Look for a machine shop that will grind the fence flat for you.
There are several ways it can be done and I'm sure someone more
knowledgeable will be able to provide you with the correct terminology
Hi, All -
Thanks for your replies and suggestions. Here are my responses:
1. When I said machined face, I meant the edge of the board that meets
the cutter head. And not talking about when trying to flatten a board
but rather edge jointing for glue-ups. Keeping the workpiece 'flat'
against the fence.
2. Not a problem with the outfeed bed being higher or lower than the
knives. I know what that looks like, and this ain't that. Fixed that
the first month I had the jointer.
3. I can look down the machined surface and it is apparent that the
twist occurs at the end of the cut, where most of the workpiece is
against the outfeed side of the fence (where a decent square seems to
indicate the twist in the fence).
4. I am meticulous about setting knives and doing any sorts of
adjustments that impact long-term quality of tool function. Yes, the
knives are set perfectly relative to the outfeed table.
5. I have actually been able to flatten a face of a 3" x 6" 6' white
oak timber using this jointer (NOT using the fence), so I can safely
say that my assertion in my original post is correct, i.e., the bed is
good, it is the fence that is the issue.
Anyone care to further address my question about what to look for in a
Thanks again to all participants for your suggestions!
Silly question: Have you determined for certain that the face of the
fence actually IS twisted and that it needs machining? I have Delta's
6" "Professional" jointer and began experiencing a similar problem, but
only when the fence is retracted such that the majority of the blades
are exposed. If I'm edge-jointing a board (4/4, 6/4, 8/4, whatever)
I've found that if I move the fence towards the front of the machine so
that only enough knife surface is exposed to get the job done, I don't
get those funny surprises. That leads me to believe I have a problem in
the fence *mounting" mechanism, but I've never bothered to get to the
root cause of the problem.
Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
Had the same problem with my Delta Deluxe jointer (37-190 I think). I
wound up selling it to my FIL who was going to use it for window trim, so
it didn't matter so much. However, it should be possible to find a good
machinist to flatten it for you.
If you're going to be dumb, you better be tough
That jointer has a problem with a warped fence.
Delta will make it good.
A warped fence will not cause a "face jointed"
board to twist, but not properly dried lumber
might do something weird when face planned.
Call Delta about the warped fence.
I would still give them a call.
Did the fence warp "after" the warranty
or before and you didn't do anything ???
Worse case, you have to buy a new fence
from Delta, but I would ask before I made
On Wed, 29 Apr 2009 06:34:36 -0600, D'ohBoy wrote
A machinist may be overkill. Engine rebuilders often use what basically is a
large bely sander to flatten cylinder heads quickly and accurately when <
0.010" needs to be removed. It could save you a ton of money compared with
grinding and be more than accurate enough.
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