It's like a new jointer

Mar 10, 2021 Last reply: 5 years ago 1 Replies

I have a powermatic 54a jointer (6" long bed) purchased new in 2003. It's always worked consistently and as designed. But it was the least used power tool in my shop. It's noisy and requires more attention to stock handling for consistency. There's nothing wrong with it - just the nature of the beast, probably like other straight blade jointers.



I have a small shop and the jointer got relegated to a side wall. I had to wheel it out and plug up the dust hose every time I used it. Its like docking a battleship. I have been known the use my Stanley no. 7 hand plane, rather than tackle setting up the powermatic.



A couple of months ago, on a lark, I installed a Byrd tool helical head. Whoa! -- quiet, precise, easy to use. The jointer is now sitting in a fixed accessible location with a fixed dust connection. I have used it more in the last month than I have in the last 15 years. I did not realize how wonderful it is to have consistently square and flat wood. My table saw and planer do a lot of good, but the jointer is better for many jobs.



Bob


I had a 6" Craftsman jointer for too many years. I did use it to tie one of our dogs to when I was working in the shop. So it was good for that. Selling the majority of my work I bought good S4S lumber and had no need for a jointer and got rid of it. I was not going to charge my customers for milling the stock for use too.

Been there!

And I feel pretty much the same about my new 12" Jet jointer/ planer combo. I do have mine on a Bora mobile base in case I want to move it. Sooooo quiet.

And yes flat and square is good. Unfortunately if S4S is not flat milling it makes it to thin. Sooo for my personal work I'll likely go back to S2S 4/4 as it comes 13/16" thick. Or 5/4 S2S.

I would still like to find a more accurate way to way to set the final passes for the planer portion of the planer portion.

And changing the subject.....

Bob! Don't you have the JeesEm Clear Cut TS Stock guides? For your TS? I'm looking into going that route. I am tiring of feather boards and not being able to use feather boards in many cases. I'm thinking they will be helpful when cutting long boards and or

5x5 sheets of Baltic birch.

And then JessEm has a similar set up for the router table fence. How about those? I watched a YouTube video on those yesterday and the guy was showing the normal use of 4 feather boards, two on the fence and 2 on the table. I was using that set up when milling the cope and stick joints for the 29 kitchen cabinet doors I just completed. Two roller hold downs seem much better, if they work as advertised.

Thoughts?

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