Is any rust acceptable?

See if you can get it out using 400 wet-or-dry sandpaper, over a wooden block, with mineral spirits as the lubricant.

If not, don't worry about it: as long as it doesn't get wet, it won't spread.

-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com You must use your REAL email address to get a response.

Rust never sleeps. If you wax OVER rust, it will just keep on rusting under the wax

Get something like the BoeShielf RustOff (or whatever the product name is, use that to get the deep down rust gone, wipe with clean water, then mineral spirits, then dry it off good and THEN wax it

John

Gosh, I wanted to be told to ignore it... But I am sure your are right; thanks

Rust isn't some kind of living thing that grows. If you seal over it, it will stop. Rust is what you get when you mix oxygen and iron. Water helps to catalyse the reaction. Eliminate the O2 and rust stops. Eliminate the water but not the O2, and it slows down a lot. Reduce the temperature and it slows down. Increase the temp and it increases.

Mike

wax it. use it.

The easiest way to get rid of light surface rust (and heavy surface rust for that matter) is a single blade razor in a handle. Just slide it across the surface (at a near-like angle as a hand plane) until the rust is all gone.

UA100

Those things are great. It's one of the few commercial jigs that I felt was worth prying the wallet open for.

Barry

I bought a used JT360. He says he only used it once, but the knives were so

wax it. use it.

I've used a product, which neutralizes, or inhibits rust. It's a wipe on, which turns the rust black. I first used it when repairing rusty car fenders, back in the day. Any auto parts store should have it.

Curt Blood

Oh, phooey, it won't either. Rust requires both water and oxygen to grow. It's pretty tough to block oxygen, but not so hard to block water. Keep it dry, and the rust won't spread.

-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

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I've had good luck with Top Saver. Sprays on and can get right to the rust. Ed

Phooey?? PHOOEY!!! you said PHOOEY???

Whatever is the wreck coming to?

In the good old days there were MANY more descriptive expressions much more colorful than PHOOEY.

Harumph!

I agree.

Dave

Anyone else get Neil Young popping in their head?

I have one for my Jet 6CSX. The jig works great, my problem is finding Top Dead Center - "TDC". I think it's more a lack of experience with machinery than anything else. The jig itself works great - it holds the kinves firmly in alignment and makes tightening the bolts very easy. Well worth the cost.

Nick B

"Naval Jelly". and it's not a gel.... I got mine at one of the big-box hardware stores.

With the machine unplugged, do the following:

Set a metal straight edge on edge and rotate the cutter head until a knife JUST touches the edge. Precisely mark that spot on the fence.

Continue to rotate the cutter head until the same knife loses contact with the edge. Mark this spot on the fence.

The exact center between the two lines is TDC. Scribe that line on the fence for future use.

There may be better or easier ways, but this has work well for me.

Barry

If there is salt on the metal then it needs to be removed or it will continue to attract water and cause rust. Salt can get on it from a variety of sources--in coastal areas it's airborne. IMO, best to assume there is salt and play safe.

Naval Jelly will turn a nice patina into something you really won't want to look at very much anymore.

UA100

amen