On Oct 1, 10:47 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org (Doug Miller) wrote:
Is there some rule that only the workpiece can be mounted between the
blocks? It's possible to add some deadwood/weight to counterbalance
the workpiece, no?
There's nothing to prevent using the concepts of that fack-tree made
eccentric chuck and making your own. The counterweights can be
attached to the end mounting blocks, they don't have to be full
Howza bout gluing four blanks together and turning four quarter rounds
at one time? That doesn't sound impossible, is it?
Let's keep the bar set for the word impossible at its original "not
possible" setting. It makes communication easier.
Well in that case it was a Windows machine exhibiting a bug in its
handling of the automatic adjustment for daylight savings time. It
doesn't look like you're running Windows to me, so it's probably a
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
The center of rotation has to be centered on the lathe, but that
doesn't mean the workpiece has to have its center centered. There are
a number of ways to accomplish that as well.
Using some basic engineering to make your point may be taking unfair
advantage of the situation<G>.
Your cup is always half empty, isn't it?
The lathe could be run *very* slowly or - as explained by others -
counterweighted. It need not be run at all if one mounted a router so it
could be slid along the length of the stock, the stock being rotated
manually after each pass. And - anticipating your next objection - yes, the
stock would need to be held rigidly while routing.
In most ways the router would be the safest and provide the smoothest
result without handwork. The OP mentioned a tablesaw and bandsaw, and
that's what people limited their replies to. It would seem odd to me
if the OP had those tools and not a router.
Triangular cut - flop TS to 45, cut through one corner about 1/4" less
than halfway through (assuming normal size TS), insert tight-fitting
shim into saw kerf and tape across kerf in several places to hold
pieces together for safety while you complete the cut, flip stock over
and cut from opposite corner, again just short of halfway, complete
cut with a handsaw and cleanup with a hand plane.
Quarter round - mark desired profile on end grain of stock, make a cut
with the saw blade height just shy of the drawn profile mark (marked
curve is facing concave side up), move fence ~1/4" and adjust blade
height to just short of the line, make cut, repeat process. The trick
is to make the repeated cuts on two sides and try to leave the largest
square possible in the area to be wasted. Use the shim/tape to
stabilize the kerf(s) as necessary for safety. There are variations
on this technique, and safety is paramount, so plan out your cuts
before you have an unexpected one.
I have/had a long stored away moulding head for a tablesaw that would have
cut the quarter rounds that he's looking for. But, it's a scary tool and not
what I'd use if something else was available like a band saw to slice away
most of the corners of a quarter round.
On Oct 1, 10:53 am, email@example.com (Doug Miller) wrote:
Someone had already mentioned how to do the 45 with a bandsaw. Why
would I want to chime in with a "me, too!"?
See above what? You left out the best part - where you said, "There
is no safe way to do this on the table saw." - referring to cutting
the quarter round. If you see above I described one safe way to do
it. There are others.
I would not choose which tools and method to use until I knew what the
lumber was and what the machines were like. I'm not assuming the OP
has a Unisaw or a Laguna bandsaw - he could have Craftsman hobbyist
machines. You are allowed to assume anything you'd like. That's only
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