700 or so if you could honeycomb them, otherwise, something over 500
perhaps. Honeycomb is possible with other material [metal], and laser
or high pressure water jet, and a computerised system. Unfortunately,
MDF would either burn, or absorb moisture and deform.
The problem as I see it is that the expectation of a "precise" fit is
argumentative. Most have trouble cutting *one* hexagon and having all
sides turn out exactly as they expected first shot. It might look OK
in individual pieces, but when you assemble, the errors, however
small, *will* compound, and that adds up to a lot of effort for
something made out of pressed paper.
Too much talk on this topic already. I'm done.
Ok I read that your 6 sides will each be 2" long. This will result in a
hexagon being 3- 7/16" wide if measured from side to side and 4" wide if
measured from point to point.
The quantity coming from 2, 4x8 sheets of 3/4" MDF does not matter. I would
supply the materials as your shipping cost to me would probably cost more
than the materials.
I can cut the pieces to be the required measurements verified with a ruler.
Sand the hexes? What for? Sanding will make them unequal in size.
How much to produce? You need to tell me how many you want.
How much to ship? Again I need to know what quantity I am shipping.
I still do not see the point of presenting an answer to this question. I do
not know nor would it affect the price very much if an extra 2 sheets were
needed to fill the order. The labor and time will be the vast majority of
A CNC router , No. I would cut the blanks out with a TS.
No one is going to get a splinter from MDF. MDF is not solid wood rather a
Why on earth would the quantity be limited to an exact 2 sheets? My cost on
2 sheets of 3/4" MDF IIRC is about $45. Time is more important to me than
On 4 Jul 2005 21:47:27 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I don't want to spoil any potential business for Morris, but if you
can't afford a couple of sheets of plywood instead of MDF, as you
state a little later in the thread, what are the odds of your being
able to pay for at least a couple of hours worth of time on a CNC
If you've got a table saw, you can cut as many as you want, as
accurately as you can set a saw up (which is pretty accurate if you're
patient), with a decent fence and a couple of simple jigs. The trick
to making the pieces consistantly is to do all the reps of each op
before changing the setup, and verifying the setup every so often by
measuring a sample piece. I'd set up the fence, rip the entire sheet
into strips, then cut those strips into rhombuses with a miter guage
set to 30 degrees that has a hunk of flat scrap bolted to it as a
sacrificial extension, with a stop block screwed into that extension
on the far side of the blade to make sure each part is the same
length. Flip the rhobuses (or is it rhombii?) over and set the accute
corner against the stop block and viola, you have hexagons.
If you don't have a table saw, but do have a miter saw, you can buy
the MDF from a real lumber yard that has a shop on location, and have
them rip the sheet into strips. You'll have to pay them for the
service, but I used to do that before I had a table saw, and it wasn't
too terribly expensive. (IIRC, I had a local place rip 8 or 9 8"
planks of spruce into 1.5" wide strips for me, and it cost about seven
bucks) Then you can use a c-clamp to setup a stop block on the miter
saw fence, and cut away.
Both of these methods have the potential to be accurate to a 64th or
better, and they're a lot less expensive. Not to mention the fact
that you'll have some good experience doing it when all is said and
done, and you can say that you made them yourself. If you play your
cards right, you may even get a new tool or two out of the bargin.
MDF is cheap- even if you have to buy a saw, and mess up three or four
sheets before you get it right, you're still liable to save money
doing the job yourself.
Actually plywood does not seem that much more than MDF. So, I could
afford plywood. (What I cannot afford is real wood like cherry). :)
I considered plywood but it seemed... less solid... (and more prone to
giving users handling the hexes splinters) than MDF. I do understand
that MDF has moisture issues which is a big disadvantage (as there is
some small risk of liquid spillage for my intended use). But does
plywood break apart? Do I have to worry about the layers of the
Unfortunately, I do not have the tools (yet) to tackle this. Nor the
expertise to get to 1/64 or better precision. And more importantly, I
have a time constraint that will not allow me to buy the tools, learn
to use them, and get the finished product done. Although I do like
your thought process of justifying new tools. :)
Will have to try that on my wife in the future. :)
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