Hey Mike, thanks for the reply.
I saw the saw site and I had never seen it before. I must say "what beautiful
can't afford to buy one but would love to. As far as the hardness of the steel,
say sounds good, but I know one seller on the bay who lives in Florida and is a
blade maker. He always has new blades for Stanley #48 T&Gs on the bay.
He can send anyone his stock list (which is quite big!) and has great prices.
But he takes
his blades out to be hardened by a pro company that uses atmosphere controlled
I think they create a vacuum inside while heating. But after that, his prices
are still quite
acceptable (that means it might cheap enough for you).
I think you have really good prices too. Just an idea, the seller is
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
> Hi Alex and Enoch,
> Web site is here:
> Saws price
The URL wasn't listed... not sure where the problem is, but I'd like
Sorry, I forget some news readers won't translate the code into a
link. The url is:
Thank you, Mike
Cool! Outside of L-N and Pax I hadn't really noticed any other high-end hand
saws in current commercial production--guess I hadn't been looking too
A couple associates of mine, Jon Laubach and George Wilson, were making 18th
century pattern saws behind the scenes at Colonial Williamsburg. Those saw,
however, couldn't be purchased as they were for use in the restored area. I
was always amazed to see the wonderful things they were working on. All the
saws were beautiful and the panel saws played music nicely. ;~) I suspect
that they are both retired now... hugh talents... I consider my life better
for knowing them.
I bookmarked the Wenzloff site for future reference and passed the link on
to some associates.
[after reading the description for the large (rip) tenon saws]
Heh, I was thinking it would be useful to start the first tooth at 15deg
and progress to 0deg through the first inch or so.
I thought I was being clever, but I guess it's an old idea?
15deg and progress to 0deg through the first inch or so.
It's not too new. When I was young and my grandfather was teaching me
how to file saws, he prefered this method to progressive ppi--where
there are more teeth per inch at the toe progressing to full ppi by
1/3 or so of the way towards the heel. That probably stemed from
using a retoother to punch new teeth.
making 18th century pattern saws behind the scenes at Colonial
Williamsburg. Those saw, however, couldn't be purchased as they were
for use in the restored area. I was always amazed to see the
wonderful things they were working on. All the saws were beautiful
and the panel saws played music nicely. ;~) I suspect that they are
both retired now... hugh talents... I consider my life better for
Ah, how I wish I was able to live for a while on the right coast. The
history available there in the form of such places and people!
Well, one of these days my wife and I will make the trip. They'll
probably have to throw me out--I'll want to stay for a bit.
Thank you for the reference.
Take care, Mike
There are certainly a lot of interesting places on the right coast... For
example, my woodworkers club uses one of the buildings where the movie
Tootsie (Dustin Hoffman, 1982) was filmed. That farm dates to the 1670s as I
recall... reeks of history! ;~) My hometown dates from 1660s... stone houses
from the period still exist (though they had to be rebuilt after the British
burned the place!).
...I'm evidently a bit confused - I thought the taper was from the
toothed edge to the back edge, with a constant thickness heel to
> If it's narrower at the toe, what prevents binding as you progress
> through the cutting stroke? That's illogical...
As made--at least as regards Disston and Atkins--the toothline is a
fairly consistent from heel to toe. But they are double-tapered.
Looking at the toe end of the saw straight on, it is narrower at the
top and tapers to the toothline.
Looking straight down from the top of the saw, one would see it taper
from the back of the saw to the toe.
Only the Atkins 400 series was as tapered, with the others less so.
Which is why they didn't cost as much as the top saws--Disston also
charged significantly more for their top saws.
Taper grinding is a whole can of worms in some tool circles. Saws from
earlier periods were not tapered and even once tapering began, it was
greater on cross cut saws than rip.
Take care, Mike
On Mon, 17 Apr 2006 16:01:18 GMT, email@example.com (MikeW) wrote:
Thanks for the extra information Mike; I guess I just underestimated
the effectiveness of the set in keeping the blade from binding as it
progresses through the kerf.
It must have taken an interesting setup to grind those blades in two
axes. Pretty impressive manufacturing coming out of the 1800's.
There are certainly a lot of interesting places on the right coast...
For example, my woodworkers club uses one of the buildings where the
movie Tootsie (Dustin Hoffman, 1982) was filmed. That farm dates to
the 1670s as I recall... reeks of history! ;~) My hometown dates from
1660s... stone houses from the period still exist (though they had to
be rebuilt after the British burned the place!).
Too cool John!
We have a lot of history and places to go and see on the left
coast--but it is young in comparison and certainly not seminal in the
foundation of our country.
The town we live in, Forest Grove in Oregon, is an old community by
this side of the country's standards. The house we live in was built
by relatives in 1897, and his father's house was built in the 1880s.
A house down the street was from the 1840s. That's about it around
here. Still cool, but we have always wanted to make it to New
Well, back to cutting out saw blanks...take care, Mike
I lived in a small city in Germany for awhile in which construction on
the cathedral there began in the 12th c. Took more than a hundred
years, IIRC, to finish it.
I saw aerial views of the bombed city during WWII, and although much
around it was flattened, it somehow managed to escape more than shrapnel
Hah, see for yourself:
Here's a good picture of it:
There's a little note on the physics of the tower near the bottom,
asserting that the point below the tip of the tower is just just shy of
where something would fall if dropped from the tip, and that the
difference is due to the rotation of the earth. A non-sequitur beneath
the tower in the cathedral.
The cathedral is made of red sandstone, not wood, but I believe the
sandstone was cut with saws... hand saws. :)
Also, there is an alter carved of wood (and painted) by Hans Holbein the
Younger (the Henry VIII painter).
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.