I was thinking of buying one from Amazon, but can't decide which one to get. Do you recommend the basic model for $49.99 or the other one for 69.99. I hate to jar loose of the extra 20 bucks, but wonder if I should bite the bullet and get the advanced model. I am not an advanced woodworker and don't know what the advanced model would buy me. Thanks for your help.
Go the deluxe model. Once you have it, you will use it for a lot of cuts on the tablesaw and a lot of profile passes on the router table. See my review for more detailed information:
I thought the same until I actually received one. Now I'd pay double the price because it is a terribly useful and safe 'push stick' :-) In fact, I picked up a second.
You won't regret using either one. I use my high dollar one for everything and don't use any of my old stand by sticks, etc. And your fingers will probably all stay attached too! Robert Smith Jacksonville, Fl.
The problem is that it passes _over_ the blade, which requires you to do through rips with the blade lowered. I do these with the blade as _high_ as possible, because that reduces the horizontal component of blade friction against the work, a major contributor to kickback. Using the Grr-Ripper would require me to lower my blade, which I'm just not prepared to do.
So, back to the "long stick" pushstick for me. I also like the idea that a push stick made from scrap can cheerfully be stuck _through_ a blade, if that's the best way to use it. I'm never tempted to do something less safe, just to avoid damaging my expensive stick.
It also requires that you don't have a crown guard over the top of the blade, which raises a few European eyebrows - admittedly the younger or pinstripe-suit wearing ones.
Do you actually have one? Remmeber that the GRR-Ripper provides a good amount of force down on the workpiece as well to help stop it rising up on the back of the blade if it did pinch. Then you have the MJ splitter to further help prevent that. Because both sides of the workpiece are supported, and hence kept seperated during and after the cut, the chance of pinching with the grr-ripper and MJ splitter installed is reduced greatly. Also, you can cut into the GRR-Ripper with your saw bladse and it won't damage the blade. As for blade guards, well its really a moving blade guard. Your fingers are not in danger. I happen to feel MUCH safer using the device, especially when cutting narrow stock, than using a traditional push stick and standard blade guard, which you can't really use easily for narrow cuts anyway.
Read the orginal post...answer the man's question....he did not ask if you were to damn tight to spend a buck....he asked if he needed the advanced model..So if you do not own one , do not post ..It drives me crazy that someone would put a product down that has never used one let alone have enough intellligence to want to use one. Why do you have to be so damn negative against a great idea? If you choose not to buy one, so keep quite about it.
Of course not. I've only just seen the picture (prompted by this thread) and I don't like the compromise it would force me to make on where I run the blade.
Can _you_ arm-wrestle your saw ? I know I can't.
I've got a riving knife anyway, which also has the advantage I don't have to reach past the blade to insert a wedge splitter.
Nor will my sticks.
My fingers simply don't go that close to the blade. Now it has some guarding, that's accepted, but it's still never going to be as safe as simply not having your hands there at all.
I use a narrow push stick. If it's a bit too wide, I left it get trimmed by the blade.
Well said Wodcrafter!!! I challenge Andy or anyone to cut 50 pieces of black ebony 1/4" x 1/4" x 3" long and at the price of ebony ....do not waste anymore material than the saw kerf....I find the Gripper to work very at this...better than any home made push stick I would want to take the time to build. The Gripper is well made and is a terrific help here at my School. I highly recommend the Gripper for anyone with a tablesaw or router table. Well worth the investment....my fingers and hands are well worth the price of a Gripper. Mike from American Sycamore
Well said Wodcrafter!!! I challenge Andy or anyone to cut 50 pieces of black ebony 1/4" x 1/4" x 3" long and at the price of ebony ....do not waste anymore material than the saw kerf....I find the Gripper to work very at this...better than any home made push stick I would want to take the time to build. The Gripper is well made and is a terrific help here at my School. I highly recommend the Gripper for anyone with a tablesaw or router table. Well worth the investment....my fingers and hands are well worth the price of a Gripper. Mike from American Sycamore
Well said Wodcrafter!!! I challenge Andy or anyone to cut 50 pieces of black ebony 1/4" x 1/4" x 3" long and at the price of ebony ....do not waste anymore material than the saw kerf....I find the Gripper to work very at this...better than any home made push stick I would want to take the time to build. The Gripper is well made and is a terrific help here at my School. I highly recommend the Gripper for anyone with a tablesaw or router table. Well worth the investment....my fingers and hands are well worth the price of a Gripper. Mike from American Sycamore
Well said Wodcrafter!!! I challenge Andy or anyone to cut 50 pieces of black ebony 1/4" x 1/4" x 3" long and at the price of ebony ....do not waste anymore material than the saw kerf....I find the Gripper to work very at this...better than any home made push stick I would want to take the time to build. The Gripper is well made and is a terrific help here at my School. I highly recommend the Gripper for anyone with a tablesaw or router table. Well worth the investment....my fingers and hands are well worth the price of a Gripper. Mike from American Sycamore
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