I was wondering if any of you here bought and tried the GRR-Ripper.
Any positive comments? I'm pondering getting one for those narrow
cuts on the table saw but I'm not sure it's worth 70$. Gheez, it's
heeluva upgrade over a push stick made out for free from the scrap
Thanks for any advices!
How much are your fingers worth? :-)
I thinkt hey are worth every dollar... not just for safety, but for the
versatility in allowing you to make cuts on the tablesaw that were otherwise
very difficult, or dangerous to do.
Here's my detailed review of the GRR-Ripper and MJ Splitter products... have
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I agree with you about the GRR-Ripper, but the splitter is a POS. Mine
broke right away, but was no loss because it was almost impossible to make a
smooth cut with it anyhow. Now I just have those silly holes in my zci
I own two GRR-Rippers. They are great for small and short pieces. I
also own the Grip-Tite 2000 system (two magnetic feather boards and a
4" high metal fence). I use the Grip-tites a lot and would buy them
again without hesitation. The website for GRR-Ripper talks about using
two GRR-Rippers walking end over end for ripping long stock. No
thanks. This requires good coordination and concentration. I've tried
it a few times and never got the hang of it. Unfortunately, the company
will only tell you how to do this by selling you a video tape.
For narrow cuts, I use the Grip-tites. The only time I use the
GRR-Ripper is when I have short pieces.
If I had it to do over, I would only buy one GRR-Ripper, but I would
buy the Grip-Tite system first.
I was going to ask how one would use the Grip-Tite with a fence that was
made of aluminium, but watching the video, I see that he added a steel fence
plate. Looks like an efficient easy to use system.
Thinking about it, I could probably pick up a few rare earth magnets from
Lee Valley and possibly make my own home made Grip-Tites for a few dollars
less. Probably not worth the bother though.
I think the Grip-tite featherboard has a lot more in it than meets the
eye. The magnets on these units are extremely strong. Everything on
the unit - the angle of the lexan blade, the release lever, the size of
the spring, the size and angle of the sandpaper roller -- reflects a
lot of prototyping and testing to get the balance. The rollers are
even set at a slight angle to pull the wood against the fence as you
push it forward. The steel fence plate option is a well made machined
piece, not something you would readily pick up in Lowe's.
I've used these almost daily for 10 months and sort of expected them to
show a lot of wear and tear, especially the little sandpaper rollers.
They are still like new and work as well as the first time. The
designer obviously chose some tough materials and put them together in
a nice package.
BTW, I have a Jet Supersaw with factory aluminum fence. I used a piece
of 3/4" hardwood plywood to mount the Grip-tite fence. It was pretty
The Gripper's nice, but I made a narrow strip ripper for about $1 and
about 15 minutes. It's two scraps of MDF and an old mouse pad. If
you need to buy the mouse pad, It'll cost $3. <G>
I can post pictures somewhere if you'd like.
Looks like it will do the same thing as the grr-ripper device. I use
a thin piece 1/8" to 1/4" piece of shaped plywood to just push through
the thin part. I hold on to the wider part (well out of range of the
blade). Is there some reason why that is not sufficient? I have
never used something like your device. It seems like it would provide
some lateral stability that would lessen the concern of your hand
canting over if someting like kickback happened.
By the way, your router table looks like the same color as mine.
I'm with you, Leon. The scrap-made pusher that moves both the waste and the
cutoff through the blade is about the best thing going. It's what the
expensive one is imitating.
My left hand holds the curved featherboard which keeps the whole snug up to
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