Wow! All of the sudden I'm not too interested. I've got a variety of
featherboards, all shop made from the scrap pile. Hard to believe
someone would buy a steel faceplate for a tablesaw fence just to hold
I have the old wooden ones too. They are very convenient. And
convenience means I'll use it. Except as some one mentioned about
being over the miter slot. Even then I can usually position it to hold
the board up against the fence.
I also have a product that clamps to the fence and has spring loaded
wheels that hold the stock down and into the fence. It's called "rip
staight" (IIRC) and it really works well if you have a lot of ripping
to do. (When ripping multiple peices, you can use the next piece to
push the first one thru. I think the two grip tites on the steel aux
fence plate might have the same benefits.
Do the magnet bases sold by Enco have enough force to make a jig for
the table saw? The mag tites are almost 3x the price, so I;ve avoidd
them. The ones at Enco create possibilities.
Except as some one mentioned about being over the miter slot.
Either in the video or maybe in something I read, it made a point of
saying that they were strong enough to hold even over the miter slot.
So maybe they're acknowledging they know they had a problem and have
If I'm in for an ounce, I'm in for a pound, so it looks like the $159
set with the fence, featherboards, and rollers does everything.
I'm going to a woodshow at the end of the month in Somerset, NJ.
Maybe I'll be able to see or pick up a set there. Things are often
available at a discount.
They say 130 lbs. I've got two similar bases in use in the shop (one
holds a work light at a drill press, the other holds a dial indicator)
and they're fairly tenacious.
I was going to order two to hold a pair of lasers on the ShopBot, and I
think I'll order another pair for holding a featherboard on the TS - 260
lbs of holding power ought to do the job...
...and I might have to order one more to serve as the ultimate
refrigerator magnet. :D
Heh.. that's what I am working on as we speak.
One laser is mounted on the spindle carriage, shooting a line along
the Y axis, and the other is going to get mounted on the end-plate
shooting a line along the X axis.
$ 24.00 total. And as I often use an insert V-bit, the point actually
comes to a real point. I zeroed on the plate and dropped a .001
pinhole in a piece of plastic and tweaked my (so far just one) laser
onto the dot. My one beef is, that the laser line is a bit fat, but
whaddaya expect for a 10.00 dollar doodad.
I spent some time yesterday (Friday) afternoon with the designer/
builder of my CNC, and we have decided to implement a couple of
upgrades at minimal cost to me.
No, no tool-changer yet..but by summer I'll be needing one :-]
I can't believe how much fun I'm having.
That's the setup I have now, but the magnets on the lasers (on sale at
$9.95 ea from Home Depot) leave a lot to be desired. I just finished
ordering 5 of the magnetic bases and I'll see if they do a better job.
(I also ordered a 12" digital caliper so I don't have to tie myself in
knots using a 6" caliper to accurately measure 7-5/16"-wide boards.)
If you decide you want /precision/ positioning, I have a gizmo at
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/SuperZero/ that locates a reference point on
the workpiece within one step in all three axes in about 45 seconds -
but I'm not sure it's compatible with your controller/software. <snicker>
Good on ya! When I wanted serious upgrades, I ended up having to scratch
build another machine to get 'em. :(
That's gonna hurt (big time!) but it'll make a lot of work go ever so
much faster. I don't think you'll be sorry.
Well, it took you long enough to get with the program. :)
Dunno - I've been looking at the switchable magnetic do-dads, and the
manufacturers seem pretty proud 'em.
I just got an Enco sale flyer with this item - and I've been thinking
that two of 'em would make a pretty solid anchor for a featherboard...
I kinda like the $8.89 price, too.
The mounting hole is on the top, so I'm thinking of a Z-shaped bridge
with mounting holes in the top leg and slots in the bottom leg, so that
my featherboard can fit between the magnets - hoping that will let me
deal with the case when the magnets might otherwise be located over the
This should give me 260 lbs of holding power and (in cooperation with
the Board Buddies and splitter pawls) a reasonable amount of kickback
I'll post pix when it's done.
On Fri, 13 Feb 2009 14:56:11 -0800 (PST), KIMOSABE
I am not sure that the brand is the same, but I have a pair
with what appear to be the same "fingers" but the body is of
wood rather than plastic.
They work well, and yes, can be positioned to hold stock
against the fence.
The idea (which, by the way, is not well illustrated in the
photo) is that the "fingers" are of a springy plastic. So,
if the block is positioned on the table appropriately, the
finger will bend against the stock pushing it toward the
Simple, and works well...
All the best,
I have a set of the older models (wood body). They work and I use them
often but if the Grip-Tite ends up being over the miter groove, the
magnet is not strong enough to hold on my model. Be careful about
using the long (L shaped) plastic hold down on a finished surface - it
can mar that surface of your wood from the pressure exerted.
I consider them pricey for what they are ($40 ea) but they work except
for over the groove as I said.
I don't doubt it.
It's just something that bothers me in many areas of manufacturing.
Drum equipment is the same way.
You'll have this expensive product that is supposed to be cutting edge
technology, best of the best in performance, only to have one or two
little parts made out of cast zinc instead of machined steel, just to
save a nickel on the front end. They of course, wear out in a few
months, or give you enough bloody knuckles that you end up replacing
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
Yep, I've got one. It also pushes against the fence.
They work well in conjunction with regular feather boards, because
the limitation is that if the work piece is such a side that the grip
tite is position on top of a miter slot, it has no holding power.
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