I recently got 60 feet of 1.5" x 3" hard maple for free. I decided to make a rather large cutting/chopping board. What is the consensus on the best glue for this application?
TIA,
I recently got 60 feet of 1.5" x 3" hard maple for free. I decided to make a rather large cutting/chopping board. What is the consensus on the best glue for this application?
TIA,
I always use elmers (or equivalent) white glue. They're milk based, and are safe for food items. As long as your not doing a soak in hot water, the glue will hold. Long exposure to water can make it let go.....
I've got a couple in my kitchen that Im ade 5-6 years ago, and they're holding together fine...
YMMV
--JD
make a rather large cutting/chopping board. What is the
Milk based???? I doubt it. That would make it a casein glue, wouldn't it? I thought it was a polyvinyl compound.
make a rather large cutting/chopping board. What is the
Not absolutely necessary but my choice would be epoxy.
After it is cured, it is inert, waterproof, and the joints won't fail.
Lew
I have a bottle of Titebond 2. Do you thing it will hold up?
Ditto. I'm thinking of trying Titebond 3 on one though, just to see how it holds up.
JP
Sure. Titebond 2 or 3 will be fine.
Dave
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"Al Reid" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@corp.supernews.com:
Probably just fine. But Titebond 3 is supposed to be absolutely wonderful, making you look 20 years younger, 20 pounds lighter, reverse global warming, and sort out all the discord in the Middle East. Or something like that.
It's a cutting board. Use almost any glue in your shop with the maple, and you're going to get 10 years of hard use. Secure the laminations with dowels during your glue up, assuming edge or long grain orientation, and it will likely outlive you, no matter how old you are today.
IMO, the accuracy of the flattening of the to be glued surfaces is probably more critical than the choice of glue.
Patriarch
Titebond 2 is water resistant, should work fine if you are not soaking the cutting board, but Titebond 3 is basically WaterProof
John
Uh, where did you get the information that white glue is milk based?
I have had #2 fail on a butcher block. The block did get a lot of use and was frequently wet. I would suggest a Water Proof rather than a Weather Resistant Glue.
make a rather large cutting/chopping board. What is the
Personally I'd get online and do some research for a food-grade woodglue. But I also agree with j.duprie on using white school glue, safe for kids if they decide to eat some for a snack. Regular white glue is what used to be used in furniture factories, still very strong stuff. Besides, even if you soaked the finished and dried cutting board in water and it fell apart, the wood would be ruined by warping anyway.
Alex
Leon responds:
Heh. Casein glue is. White glue is a form of polyvinyl acetate, and there just ain't many cows giving off major amounts of that.
Charlie Self "If you want to know what God thinks of money, just look at the people he gave it to." Dorothy Parker
Look at the Titebond 2 bottle again, it is "Weather Resistant", not Water Resistant. Weather resistant could include dampness, heat, cold, sunlight.
May be he was associating Borden's with milk... If that was true, the Rain Dance wax that I used on my car may have been milk based as Borden's at one time had its name on the container.
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I believe white glue is made from animal bones and cartilage, hooves and horns, sometimes hide and all coming from the meat industry. Not milk.
Alex
I dun think so, Titebond 2 is "water resistance" and TItebond 3 is "water proof".
Woodcraft stock Titebond 3 last week, I bought a bottle to try, and the saleperson asked me to let him know the result after I use it.
Hmmm...I smell a Product Test in the offing. We've got T1, 2 and 3 at the shop, so mebbe I'll glue up some test joints and see how they fair under various (wet) conditions.
I'm thinking about gluing several sets of two .75x2x6" boards together with a 3" overlap. I'll then let the boards cure for at least the recommended time period and then soak them for a period of time. Last step will be to clamp one in a vise and figure out some way of testing the load limit.... Any suggestions? I'd prefer to have somewhat meaningful results.
JP
One suggestion comes to mind here. Instead of simply a load limit, a failure under constant stress might (maybe) apply more. I'm thinking of three exaggerated cauls, each glued together, then a screw threaded in one piece applying tension against the other. You could then leave them soak for days or weeks, checking once in a while. The idea here (unlike the load limit) is that the water will first soften the exposed glue line, and subsequent stress will cause that part of the bond to fracture, allowing water to penetrate further and repeat the process.
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