OK, I've glued up 3 sets each of T1, T2, T3 and Gorilla Glue, and am
planning on soaking them tomorrow. What time intervals do you think I
should attempt to break them at? I'm thinking the first set after 4
hours, the second after 12, and the third after 24 or 48. Does this
First thought is to check the water temperature. Another is to give an
extended cure time, just to be sure. Also, if you're going to stress with
increasing weight until the joint fails, I'd include a test board for each
glue, which did _not_ get soaked in water.
I also suspect most wet-failures are gradual. That the glue becomes more
plastic, and becomes subject to creep and slow fracture. IOW, a much smaller
(than load limit) weight when applied for several hours might well pull apart
the joint. This could happen even if the soaked board showed the same weight
limit as the unsoaked one.
Yet another factor, once you've found some failures, is if some of the
strength returns when the wood is fully dry again.
I know that the Titebond III container says "Waterproof" right on the front
of it, but it also says "Not for continuous submersion or for use below the
waterline". That sounds more like "water resistant" that "waterproof".
I know that testimonial evidence is always suspect however, I made a Maple
cutting board and knife holder some 15 years ago and they have held up to
virtually daily use with no problems. Edge glued only with yellow
carpenters glue, I don't remember the actual brand.
It is after all only a cutting board.
PS The last one I made, I did use Titebond 3. I'll check back in another 15
years and let you know if its still holding up.
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Probably just fine. But Titebond 3 is supposed to be absolutely wonderful,
making you look 20 years younger, 20 pounds lighter, reverse global
warming, and sort out all the discord in the Middle East. Or something
It's a cutting board. Use almost any glue in your shop with the maple, and
you're going to get 10 years of hard use. Secure the laminations with
dowels during your glue up, assuming edge or long grain orientation, and it
will likely outlive you, no matter how old you are today.
IMO, the accuracy of the flattening of the to be glued surfaces is probably
more critical than the choice of glue.
Neither. Just apply glue and clamp the boards. Consider this. Glue in
general is stronger than the wood itself when used in line with the grain.
Most often if the glue and or joint is not compromised the wood breaks
before the glued joint line. Dowels and or biscuits simply reinforce and
make the wood itself stronger and add more strength when attaching a piece
by it's end grain. Biscuits will assist in alignment in any application and
dowels work better when attaching long pieces of wood at their ends where
the glue does not hold well at all.
The cutting board that I made in Jr. High in 1969 is still holding up well
with being soaked daily. At that time I used Weld Wood. This was a dry
power glue that you mixed with water.
Since, there have been many water proof glues that are easier to use.
Titebond 3 will probably be great for this application. I do not recommend
the #2 as I have had a butcher block fail at the joints that were in fact
reinforced with 3/4" dowels. I built that butcher block in 1980 and 6 years
later the joints began to fail. This butcher block saw a lot of use and
water. The dowels did not prevent failure of the joint, they simply
prevented the butcher block from falling apart then the joint failed.
Still, the butcher block was useless. #2 is "Weather Resistant", not "Water
Proof". The Titebond #3 is stated as being water proof.
I'd go with Titebond #3.
As a P.S here, as with any thing you glue, be sure to totally cover the
surface to be glued with glue. Do not just run a wavy bead of glue on the
surface. Coat the entire surface. You can spread the glue with a stiff
piece of plastic similar to a credit card.
however, be a better option in this case.
LOL, I almost always use that type brush and I plunk it into a glass of
water to keep it from drying out during the day.
The credit card is faster on wide surfaces.
I've been using a 4" long bolt attached to a handle to spread glue on
edges lately. It really works well - and I think that someone here on
the wreck wreckommended it. The threads sort of smear out the glue
into an evenly lined coat. Sort of like a pair of corduroys. Thanks!
make a rather large cutting/chopping board. What is the
Personally I'd get online and do some research for a food-grade woodglue.
But I also agree with j.duprie on using white school glue, safe for kids if
they decide to eat some for a snack. Regular white glue is what used to be
used in furniture factories, still very strong stuff. Besides, even if you
soaked the finished and dried cutting board in water and it fell apart, the
wood would be ruined by warping anyway.
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