I'm thinking of replacing almost all my TS blades (mostly Craftman
non-carbide) with the Freud LU84 combination blade. Do any of you use
this blade? If so, comments?
P.S. Woodworkers Supply has these for $60 ea. Anybody seen them cheaper
I've been using Freud blades for years. I've had LU72s, LU84s, LU85s,
and they've all worked well. I particularly like the Ultimate Chop Saw
Blade (is that the 85 or the 72? I get 'em all mixed up). Glass smooth
cuts. I don't know how you can improve on that.
Although Forrest prices have come down some in years, it used to be
they were about twice as much as a Freud. They aren't twice as good.
Frankly, I don't even know that they're better. You'll hear lot's of
Forrest owners brag about how good their blade is, but I don't think
I've ever heard a former Frued owner claim their Forest was a LOT (or
any) better than the Freud.
I think you get great value with Freud blades.
I am a Freud/Forrest user. It took me quite a while (years) to work
up the $ to spring a C-note for a Forrest WWII. I have used Freud
blades for several years - and they are quite good - have four of them
at around $75ea on average.
The WWII will do anything that these Freuds will do - and just as
well. I'm talking laminate/combo/finecut or whatever. I wish that
I had purchased the Forrest 5 years ago. Would have saved me some $.
Also just bought the Forrest 'chopmaster' for my MS - SWMBO was a little
alarmed last week when I used it for the first time on some oak crown.
"Sounds different" she said. Yeah - that's my new Forrest (in response).
Oh - be careful then - sounds sharp !??
The Forrest's are scary sharp to start and just bring the
'jaded' hobbyist to slight 'attention' when they reach full RPM.
You will know what I'm talking about when/if you get one.
I will not buy another blade other than a Forrest.
With a Forrest you know you have the absolute best. Any trouble is not
the blade, it is your technique or your machine. Eliminating one
variable is always a good thing.
Also the carbide is thicker than other blades, meaning more
resharpenings, and the coatings on the frued are usually removed the
first time they are sharpened.
I've used it -- it's a compromise between quality and laziness -- I just hate
changing the frigging blade.
When ripping, it tends to burn a little more than a dedicated (e.g. glue-line)
blade. When cross-cutting, you get a little tear out. It's no good for any kind
of non-thru cut, because it's a TCG tooth, and you have to clean up the artifacts
it leaves behind.
It's like car tires. "All Season" is really "No Season" :-) The saw blade
should be treated like an individual tool, not like a disposable razor (that
justify the cost in my mind :-)
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