I want to get the blades sharpened from my 1996 Husqvarna Master 43RC mower.
I bought the mower last month from the guy who sold me his house, and it
looks like the blades have never been sharpened. I have quarters with
In trying to remove the blades, the bolt holding them on is very rusted. I
can't turn the bolt without turning the blades as well, so it never loosens.
Spray some penetrating oil on the bolt every couple of hours for a day. Use
a block of wood to jam the blade so it does not turn when you put a wrench
on the bolt.
I use a belt sander to sharpen my blade.
Just curious, do you clamp the blade and move the belt sander, or vice
versa? Do you sand towards the edge or away from it?
I have been using a file for the last 10 years. It's cheap and easy, but I
can only get the blade medium sharp with a file.
SAFETY FIRST turning the blade turns the crankshaft which could result
in it kicking forward or back & even starting, at least pull the plug
wire, better yet the plug.
Now I use an impact wrench, but in my primitive days,
Plan A: I'd jam the blade with a chunk of 2 X 4 of other expendable
object, put the biggest box end wrench available on the nut, and hit
the wrench with the largest available hammer.
Plan B: Jam the blade as in plan A, but instead of a hammer, I'd link 2
wrenches together box over open to get a really long lever.
Plan C: if all plan a or b does is round off the bolt, a 3' long pipe
wrench will often win the game.
Plan D: sharpen the blade with a 4" angle grinder right where it is
Soak in oil for a few days like he said. A 1/2 inch drive ratchet
should get it off. It's probably a 14mm. Just block the blade with a
2x4 to prevent it moving. You can slip a lenght of pipe over the
ratchet if you need more leverage. I had one that was really stuck one
time. No amount of coaxing would get it off . I finally used a right
angle grinder to sharpen the rounded edges then was able to put a big
vise-grip on it, then the hammer. Needless to say I replaced the bolt.
I sharpen my blade almost ever time I mow due to all the rocks I have.
I remove the blade and then freehand it on a bench grinder. They say
it is important to balance the blade by removing the same amount of
material from each side. This protects the engine bearings. You
plance the blade on a cone and see which way it tilts. Then you remove
material from the heavy side until it balances. It is important to
tighten the blade securely when re-attaching it otherwise it could work
loose when mowing. Really lean on it or better yet use a torque
Walking mower or riding?
You can sometimes stop the blade turning by stick your boot under the
deck to block the tip of the blade. (Remove spark plug wire from plug,
and better yet, remove spark plug entirely from machine.)
Impact wrenches usually work really well.
I've seen a grinder tip made for electric drills, to sharpen blades.
But you can't balance a blade while still on the machine.
Christopher A. Young
You can\'t shout down a troll.
AS everyone else has said : block the blade with a 2X4. or they make a
little device that clamps to deck that will block the blade (seen them at
local garden stores).
Just fair warning, if this is the first time its been removed, you may not
get it off unless you use an impact wrench. My Cub Cadet came from the
factory so tight, I had to remove the deck and haul it to the local garage
to get the blades off. I had blocked the blade with a 2X4 and put so much
pressure on the nut that the blade split the 2X4. EVery time there after,
they come off just as nice as can be. Just that first time was a bear.
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