Years ago I rolled up a 4x8 ft piece of Formica and stored it in my garage.
I found out recently that there was a set in it that refused to come out.
I tried wetting the back and laying on my patio with weights on for days.
I even tried using my heat gun on. It didn't help a bit. Any solutions?
It is a wonder that it did not break with that tight of radius if you
did not use a heat gun to wind it that tightly.
Also, wetting any plastic laminate is not going to aid in forming it.
It is water proof.
Use the original (not the new waterbase and I'm presuming can still
obtain it; been a _long_ time since I've done any laminate, like 15 yr)
contact cement as it's stickier imo altho probably can get by otherwise.
Just to be comfortable, I'd plan on a sheet of 3/4 ply over the surface
with some weight for 24 hr afterwards altho if you get a good bond and
roll it well it should be fine.
In this application, the 3/4 ply _is_ a caul. Oh noes! We've
violated Electric Comet's definition of caul! Who'd have
thought a caul could be 4 feet wide, 8 feet long, and only
3/4 inch thick, with no curve!
On Saturday, November 21, 2015 at 9:47:42 AM UTC-8, woodchucker wrote:
Well, that's half-true. It's phenolic plastic lamination from plies of
paper and resin. So, in a period of months, the water content
might migrate inside the wood-fiber-paper material, and swell some of the fibers
to make a curve.
The 'glue it to something flat' solution will work fine, and a few years
of staying flat will keep it that shape, even if termites eat the substrate
from under it.
The strongest phenolic plastics are laminated with linen cloth instead of paper.
I'm thinking of using that for building a plane (also requires the right shape of tuit).
The back side of Formica (or any other brand of "laminate" contertop
material) WILL absorb water, and it WILL warp towards the finished
side if left in a high humidity environment for a prolonged period of
time. The melamine top surface is virtually impermeable - not so the
On 11/23/2015 1:38 PM, email@example.com wrote:
Yeah, the back side of the laminate is textured to add more bite and
that may appear to absorb water but it will not penetrate. If that were
the case, water based adhesives would do work well with plastic
laminates. FWIW I have worked with plastic laminates for a very long
time and have never ever witnessed it warping toward the finished side
regardless of reason.
You mention melamine, is typically not sold a plastic laminate by itself
unless buying trims strips. It is most always bought with a thick wood
material subsurface. That will warp with water.
I have several pieces of Arborite - same thing as Formica - that is
curled akmost into a "C" shape from sitting out in the weather. It
came off of the manufactured lumber backing it had been fastened to
sitting out behind the shop, and it is now curled pretty badly. Was on
a cheam'n'nasty pallet)
From Formica's information on the internet at:
Postforming grade laminate is hygroscopic; that is, it is capable
of losing or absorbing moisture from the atmosphere. Therefore,
if it is exposed to dry air conditions, a loss of moisture can
result that adversely affects its postforming properties. To assure
proper postforming performance, Formica® Brand postforming
grade laminate should be preconditioned prior to use for at least
48 hours at 70°F (21°C) and 50% relative humidity. Small shop
areas can be economically humidified with portable humidifier
units. Larger areas may require specific recommendations from
an HVAC equipment supplier.
Remember, when seasonal changes approach, preconditioning
practices should be observed to maintain consistent postforming
conditions inside the shop, regardless of the atmospheric
conditions outside. This is especially important during winter
months, when dry air conditions often exist
Straight from the horse's mouth, so to speak. If it is hygroscopic and
absorbs moisture it only stands to reason that it could warb prom
differential expansion - no??
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