I wonder what grit finishing stone do you use? Mine is a 8000 grit King
stone, but somehow it does not seem to be enough for me, it does create
mirror surface but when looked perpendicular to the back of the iron it
seems a bit milky. Is it possible to create mirror surface like mirror
on a wall. What stone should I use to archive such polish? HidaTool has
10000 grit Naniwa stone. Anyone has experience with this brand?
Why is it that you feel you need a true mirror finish?
Is it going to make that much of a diffierence or is it just going to
make them LOOK better?
GO SYSTI MATIC, BAILEY AND GRIZZLY
In stones, I suspect the grit is a relative number. One must also consider
the brand. IIRC, King is not top of the line. Nortons are decent. Lots
here are starting to go to Shaptons for the speed. I don't know the brand
of my 8000 stone because I got it at Japan Woodworker and I don't read
Japanese. I just asked the guy, which is your best 8000 grit stone and he
handed me the one in the big green box. At 8000, I get a true mirror
Lots of L-Ns (and one Stanley)
2 WW2s, plus a Chopmaster
I finally got around to ordering a stone I've thought about buying for
years... it came Wednesday. It's a 1"X2"X8" black hard Arkansas stone. I've
had a 1/4"x1"x3" black hard Arkansas stone for 30+ years or so and longed
for a bigger one for about as long! I put a polish on my pen knife and all
my chisels and marking knives tonight as well as a block plane iron. There
are still a whole lot of plane irons and other cutting tools that need
attention so I'll get to use my fantasy stone quite a bit in the near
I started buying Arkansas stones 30+ years ago as they were the best
alternative in those days. Over time I got bigger samples of soft, medium
and hard bench stones and slips. They still do a good job of sharpening and
the harder ones are the follow up to my Makita blade sharpener.
Getting the mirror finish brighter or clearer on the back doesn't
necessarily mean it's sharper. I have a Takenoko 8000 on the recommendation
of an instructor at the Japan Woodworker. The guys behind the counter there
also recommended the Shapton stones (as does Steven Knight IIRC). They alos
have King Stonesl, so you're probably fine with what you've got. IMO,
you're fine with what you're using.
Out of curiosity, what are you using to sharpen prior to honing on your King
I have some unanimous (actually I forgot the brand, but it is some
cheap one) 1000/6000 combination stone, which cuts amazingly fast but
quite soft and does not stay flat much. Then I go to a King 8000.
Funny, my wife, who is Japanese told me that Takenoko is a name of the
food (eatable bamboo shoot), which she found somewhat funny for brand
of the stone.
It sounds like maybe you are skipping too many grades in your
sharpening. If the previous stone you used was too coarse the
8000 grit stone will never polish out the deepest pits and scratches.
Off hand, I suggest you precede the 8000 grit with a stone no coarser
than 4000 grit and spend enough time on that grit to be sure to
remove the depeset pits and scratches from the previous grade.
Maybe also the 8000 grit stone is contaminated with some of the
: I wonder what grit finishing stone do you use? Mine is a 8000 grit King
: stone, but somehow it does not seem to be enough for me, it does create
: mirror surface but when looked perpendicular to the back of the iron it
: seems a bit milky. Is it possible to create mirror surface like mirror
: on a wall. What stone should I use to archive such polish?
Dimitri could try honing with chromium polish cream on glass.
This works as quickly as a very fine stone, gives a mirror finish.
More on my web site. Please look under 'Sharpening Notes' - 'Some Scientific
Light ............. '.
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
Email address is username@ISP
username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
You were looking at the wax they use as a binder. Try it again, then
_carefully_ wipe the stropped area to remove the wax and particles.
Quality, quick strop for carving. I'm carving cherry wood spoons green
right now, so I strop often to stay ahead of corrosion.
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