Spar varnish is called "spar varnish" because it's used to varnish the spars on a sailboat. The spars flex under wind loading so the varnish has to be flexible or it'll just flake off. If you don't need a flexible finish, spar varnish isn't needed.
How about penetrating epoxy? I've never tried it for anything other than stabilizing rotting wood. Perhaps it doesn't have any UV protection?
If you're going to paint it, just make it out of Trex. I've seen plenty of outdoor furniture made out of Trex (or equivalent).
My understanding at the time was that spar varnish had UV inhibitors whereas regular "indoor varnish" did not. ... hence the price. My fiberglass canoe builder recommended carnuba floor wax for the canoe - from the hardware store - $ 5.99 per can - same stuff at the boat store was 3 X the price. John T.
I have not.
I understand. But every product is different and some products will have to be removed to refinish after they have fully cured. No need to apologize!
Most of the finishes you mentioned above only penetrate and do not add a layer of protection. That layer of protection prolongs "in between" maintenance.
I suggest when you call to not beat around the bush. Tell them what you are doing, with what materials, and ask them if the product will do what you want, specifically. If they don't give you a simple yes or no answer it is probably not going to do what you want. Well the no answer will not be good either. ;~)
And keep in mind that the wood starting to grey may be your only indicator that the finish is not doing what you expected it to do. At that point, a lot of sanding to restore the color or stain.
Out door wooden projects require work to maintain.
But hey! If you find tat ideal product, let me know 5 years from now how it is working.
And thinking outside the box. IF your choice of finishes don't perform like you want and you are no longer enamored with the look, paint is always a longer lasting alternative vs. reapplying a clear finish.
I am not trying to poo poo your goal so much as to give you realistic expectations.
A good idea but he has already bought the wood. Returning "may not" be possible.
And that reminds me, changing the narrative a bit here, I plan to redo our kitchen sooner than later. And kitchen cabinets take a beating from spills and being wiped down. We are strongly considering an oil based paint. But I still like the wood look. It downed on me that I could probably use Pergo flooring for the center panels. And insert them into rabbets on the back of the door frames. That way the panels could be changed out. The 1/2" thick Pergo we are looking at is a little more expensive than walnut, cherry, or oak veneer plywood. BUT it will be tough as nails when it comes to wiping down the surfaces and less likely to stain. AND I would not have to apply a stain, paint, or varnish!
Sorry for taking this OT Derby Dad.
Returning *was* possible, but not anymore.
The sofa section of the sectional, more or less. ;-)
No problem. If you go that route, what will the inside of the doors look like? Different flooring has different backing. (Some have pads, etc.)
And while yes, the panels can be changed out, do you think you'd actually ever do that?
Your need to refinish that chest of drawers! LOL
Tell them the reason your are returning is because you bought short and got billed for long!.
I was once told I could not return a sheet of plywood because I had cut it. I explained that only after I cut it did I notice the outer veneer was de laminated. They finally understood.
The particular ones I was looking at had a hard balance surface on the back, solid colored in the same shade as the front.
I would like to have the option. In our neck of woods and in our neighborhood we were the first buyers to go bold with what I described as the "black" cabinets for the kitchen. They are actually a very dark moca brown. The other choices for cabinet colors was the multiple shades of honey brown oak cabinets. We were done with that look. Apparently the builder was done with the color too as every spec home that DR Horton built after that, to finish out the neighborhood, had the dark brown moca color cabinets. In fact the builder asked permission to photograph the interior of our home, before we moved in, to show the designers for another neighborhood how this all looked. Go figure.
Back to the question, we got tired of the dark brown and our kitchen is only 12 years old. Actually my wife is the problem.. ;~) The dark brown along with the tiny details of the door frames catch dust. And the dust is hard to remove from the cracks. So a smoother profile for the door frames, shaker probably, and lighter color paint. We may not like the painted and wood grain combination. Right now we are thinking some kind of bleached grey wood grain for the panels and a tinted grey for the paint. With center panels let into the backs of the door frames via rabbet joints the panels can be easily removed and replaced. And the frames can be easily painted another color if the center panels can be easily removed.
I have snipped major portions of this post and forwarded it to your wife, highlighting the line where you said. "Actually my wife is the problem."
Good luck.
You are a true friend!
I get the impression that you are thinking that my expectations are higher than they actually are. I totally expect to have to maintain the finish on a regular basis. Always have.
In any case...
Monocoat is sending me some samples of their Hybrid Wood Protector.
Tammy suggested a 50/50 blend of Pure (which has no UV protection) and Natural which will provide the UV protection. She mentioned that if there is any red in the cedar (which I don't really see) the Natural may impart some pink tones - which I won't want.
Her co-worker suggested 50/50 Pure and White which he thinks will keep the wood looking pretty much as is but as it ages towards grey he thinks the white will look really cool. I'm skeptical on that "cool" comment, but all I'll be able to test is the initial results. Of course, another coat or two, more sooner than later, should postpone the greying.
Tammy also likes Royal so she is going to toss in a sample for free but I had to promise that I wouldn't tell anyone. ;-)
I hope that the Monocoat product gets SWMBO and I the look we want because it fits one of my desires - maintenance does not require any sanding, just cleaning and re-coating. (Yes, I am aware that "no sanding" is not a given. Only the aging is.)
Woodcraft carries a resin-modified Tung Oil product - Waterlox Marine Formula that supposedly "forms a protective and elastic finish against sun/UV rays, harsh weather and moisture exposure."
Resin-modified Tung Oil - geez, something else for me to look up. ;-)
Yeah, ;~) but how many times?
I was unaware that any of their products were for out doors. I'll be anxious to see the results.
WOW! That may be your ticket for ease of application and reapplication.
I have been using Rubio Monocoat and really like the ease of use. Pricey but a little goes a very long way. I did not see any mention of using their harder for the out door product.
Put a bit of mineral spirits on the wood to see what color it would naturally be with a clear finish.
Remember the comment about my wife? I have sent this to Tammy, because you know, you are a good friend! ;~)
What final grit do *you* use before application? This cedar (specifically the
2 x 4's) seems almost ready to finish right from the lumber yard. The 1 x 4's are a different story but they'll be under the cushions so the finish is more for protection than looks. I ran them through the planer, then a quick hit with 180 in the ROS to smooth off the "tops" so the cushions won't snag and pull threads. Put a round over on all the edges too.My wife says she sees red in it, I don't. We'll see what the samples reveal.
I've done that. I also tried a couple of coats of Tung Oil (which I know won't last outside) just to see what a clear oil finish looks like. It looks like I want it to look. ;-)
(Putting on my General's stripes) "Fifth!"
All of the above. Being intended for marine use, it needs all that stuff. One thing it doesn't have is an infinite life. That's what swabbies are for.
Wood bleach (oxalic acid) works fairly well to restore color. The entire finish will likely have to be removed first or it might blotch.
TANSTAAFL
I have a clothesline made of white cedar, and a lettuce bed of white cedar and red cedar in my yard. They sit in full sun, or rain, or snow, and have for a bit over two years now. I finished them with raw linseed oil, because I wanted something I could trust next to food.
I applied two coats, with a brush, maybe a week apart. Since then I haven't redone it.
The white cedar quickly darkened to almost a charcoal gray, darker than it would have if left untreated. The red cedar is still red, but darkened, and with dark gray flecks in it. I'm satisfied with the way it looks, but no one will wonder why I chucked fine furniture out in yard.
Boiled linseed oil might not darken so much, but I can't say from experience.
IIRC 150~180. I think the indoor product recommends 150. Try each grit.
Do not doubt what your wife sees, even if she is wrong. Just a frindly warning.
Wrong? Isn't that your job?
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