What type(s) of screws would be recommended for outdoor furniture
made from red cedar?
Would good 'ol galvenized screws be OK?
A set of plans I read mentioned dry wall screws. I'm sure they would hold
pretty
well, but, rusted screws would spoil the look. (The were also using PT wood
though.)
Do they make galvenized 'dry wall' screws?
Or, would a waterproof glue and plugs in the screw holes hold up well?
How about dowel rods?
ThankX
Ron
www.mcfeelys.com
Check out the stainless steel screws, as well as their corrosion resistant
coatings. Jim's catalog explains it as well as anything I've seen, so ask for
one.
Charlie Self
"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know
for sure that just ain't so."
Mark Twain
They'd be fine, but you'd want to set them deep and epoxy a wooden
plug over the top.
Bronze are a hideous price, stainless are pretty cheap these days.
Unless you're near the sea (stainless doesn't like salt) then I'd use
stainless.
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
That's a surprise to all of us who have stainless screws in our piers. 304
class stainless (High iron content), like you see in S/S props may show a
little surface rusting but not enough to run. The deck screws seem to be a
little higher in chromium and I don't see any rust on the ones in my dock.
It's called "stain less" for a reason, it will still corrode in the marine
environment.
304 (AKA: 18-8) is the absolute minimum, 316L at about a 20% premium over
304 is preferred.
BTW, S/S requires access to oxygen to maintain it's "stain less" surface.
Plugging the fasteners and sealing with epoxy is counter productive.
HTH
--
Lew
S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Yes, I was planning on Eastern, why not western though?
I've seen it used (advertised) a good bit.
Any other woods worth considering, except PT and red wood?
Ron
Western red cedar (quite a different species - but the trees look
similar) is a very different timber. Very light and soft, smells
somewhat unpleasantly of pencils, and less rot resistance compared to
Eastern. Really it's that softness and structural weakness that's the
problem here. The surface takes a battering if it's walked on or
rubbed against, and this gives rot an entry point.
I use WRC a lot, but only when I want something ultra-light. Lately
I've been making Japanese-style bandsawn presentation boxes for small
knives. The inside is bandsawn and planed smooth, the two outer faces
are rough sawn on a huge saw to leave a rough surface. Then it slips
into a sleeve of thick veneer.
WRC isn't a bad outdoor timber compared to ERC, but you really don't
want to confuse them if you're making a cedar lined chest for
furniture use !
Larch can be good - depending on the grade. Some of it has a lot of
resin and is almost self-varnishing 8-)
For furniture, I'm almost tempted by tropicals (except for the
conservation issues). Although there are UK species that will build
reliable outdoor structures without much treatment, movable furniture
is improved by using a harder timber - like Iroko.
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
cedar contains oils and chemicals that will corrode fasteners. the Western
Red Cedar Lumber Association suggests using a hot dipped galvanized,
stainless or aluminum fastener www.wrcla.org
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.