Epoxy, Fabric and Wood

Overall question:

Will epoxy hold flexible plastic to fabric? Specifically, West Systems G-Flex epoxy and 3M Dual Lock adhesive tape.

I'm trying to help a friend extend the life of a couch. To keep the cushions from sliding forward, the manufacturer used Velcro-like hook & loop material between the bottom of the cushions and the fabric that covers the springs in the base of the couch. The H&L strips are sewn onto the cushions and base and have served their purpose well for many years.

Unfortunately, the springs have weakened, so my friend put a piece of 3/4" plywood under the cushions to add firmness. This works fine, except that the cushions slide forward whenever someone sits on the couch since the H&L is no longer connected.

She tried some of the 3M Dual Lock adhesive tape between the cushions and plywood, but the tape does not stick to the fabric on the cushions for very long. After a few "sitting sessions" the tape, which is actually a hard but flexible plastic, loses it's adhesion to the fabric bottom of the cushion.

Short of taking the cushions to an upholsterer to see if they can sew the Dual Lock to the cushions, I'm wondering if the West Systems G-Flex epoxy might hold the tape to the fabric.

Other suggestions for preventing the cushions from sliding on the plywood would certainly be appreciated.

Reply to
DerbyDad03
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I'm confused .. < more than usual > it seems that you need to attach hook/loop to the plywood - not the cushion .. ? .. .unless the cushion's H&L is worn out or compromised ? Can't she hand-stitch some small pieces of H&L to the cushions ? ... staple some to the plywood ? John T.

Reply to
hubops

Sorry about that. Your confusion is understandable. The cushion's H&L has certainly seen better days. It's the H portion on the cushions and not only have some of the stiches ripped out but there is "debris" in the hooks - lint, etc.- which renders the hooks less effective.

Probably, but there is a lot less friction between plywood and fabric than there is between 2 fabric surfaces. The Dual Lock is much stronger than any H&L strips would be. I think the amount of H&L that would be needed would require a lot of hand-stitching through the relative thick backing of the H&L strips and especially the plastic of the Dual Lock. Doable, but it would be tough on the hands.

Maybe she should use some 40 grit adhesive backed sandpaper on the plywood. That would add some friction. ;-)

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Try adding thick Super glue to the adhesive on the tape to penetrate the fabric.

Reply to
Leon

One more thought. Will the hook side of the velcro stick to the fabric? You may only need one side of the Velcro.

Reply to
Leon

An upholsterer would have and can do what needs to be done at a cost.

I suggest you go to Hobby Lobby (Hob-nobby Lobby) or your local fabric store and get at least 2, maybe 3, ready made buttons with eyes on the back side.... like this

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These buttons are about the size of a nickel. Quarter size buttons would do fine, also. Attach a string to the eye and run the string from inside the back of the cushion (along the zipper area). Attach the string to the plywood, pulling/securing the cushion to the back of the ply. Maybe get some extra buttons, in case a button or eye breaks, you'll have replacement buttons. This may be your lease expensive fix and easy to do. Hobby Lobby or fabric store may have a large needle for threading string through the fabric.

Sonny

Reply to
Sonny

Get 2 or 3 buttons per cushion.

Reply to
Sonny

A thin strip of wood, like a long ruler, could be tucked inside the cushion zipper area, holes drilled into the strip for running the string attachments.... no need to buy buttons.

Reply to
Sonny

On 1/11/2021 8:46 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote: > Overall question: >

3/4" plywood under the cushions to add firmness. This works fine, except that the cushions slide forward whenever someone sits on the couch since the H&L is no longer connected. >

Epoxy generally has some flexibility, but not much. For some applications a product called Flex Coat (an epoxy used for fishing rod wraps) might be an option. For your application I think something like

3M 77 spray on contact adhesive might work better. I have found that when sprayed on a single surface and applied wet (right away) its a decent temporary bond, and when sprayed on both surface and left to get tacky before pressing together it makes a more permanent bond. It does seem to remain flexible. More than epoxy anyway.

Other contact adhesives may also work, but I keep 3M 77 on hand and use it all the time.

Reply to
Bob La Londe

I've used E-6000 for plastic to cloth in the past, specifically for covering a CD binder with faux fur. It's held up well, and I gather E-6000 is widely used for fabric applications. It smells bad while curing and will take a day or so to set.

I see it is now a whole family of products:

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I use a little at a time for various projects, and am on my third 2 oz tube in about 20 years. Unlike some other adhesives I've used, it lasts pretty well after opening.

Elijah

------ the binder has seen less use since getting rid of the car with the CD player

Reply to
invalid unparseable

I keep thinking about the aftermath of a failed glue-job .. uughh. As opposed to a failed sewing job - which would be easy to remove / re-do and leave little evidence afterwards. If the cushion covers are removeable - it could be machine-sewn ; even if hand-stitched it should only take about 30 minutes per cushion. Sew 1 or 2 6 inch diagonal strips - in from each corner - on the cushoins ; staple 3 or 4 shorter strips to the plywood so that they cross the cushion strips at a 90. John T.

Reply to
hubops

How about a piece of anti-slip matting? - the stuff you put under a rag rug to keep it from sliding. Grip-It Ultra Stop Non-Slip Rug Pad for Rugs on Hard Surface Floors, 3 by 5-Feet from Amazon. or Epica Super-Grip Non-Slip Area Rug Pad 3 x 5 for any hard Surface Floor, Keeps Your Rugs Safe and in Place ? also from Amazom or

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Home Despot (US most likely has same or similar)

Reply to
Clare Snyder

I'm not quite sure I understand the process completely, but this sounds kind of permanent, right? Permanent as in the cushions can't be easily removed for vacuuming, etc.?

For what it's worth, the couch is sort of like this one, where the loose seat cushions kind of get shoved under the permanently attached back cushions.

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Reply to
Dave Marulli

I'm not quite sure I understand the process completely, but this sounds kind of permanent, right? Permanent as in the cushions can't be easily removed for vacuuming, etc.?

For what it's worth, the couch is sort of like this one, where the loose seat cushions kind of get shoved under the permanently attached back cushions.

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Reply to
DerbyDad03

I have some of that lying around. We used to use it under the ratchet straps when securing Soap Box Derby cars in our trailers. Creates a non-slip cushion under the rough straps to prevent damage to the paint.

It's worth a try.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Info: The surface under the cushions is called the decking.

Many sofa cushions have semi-circle rings on the cushions' sides, at/near the back . These rings are attached to clips on the inside of the arms.... tucked down into the sides of the sofa between the arms and decking. These attachments hold the cushion in place. The ring is sewn in place via a strip of fabric. The clips are attached to elastic bands that are stapled to the sofa frame, tucked down inisde and below the arms and decking crevice. The clip allows for removing the cushion when needed.

The button or wood strip attachment can be similarly applied to the ply. The string can be looped and the ply aspect can have an "S" hook type of releasing attachment to hook onto the string loop, hence the cushion can be easily removed. This method is DIY, quick and easy, doesn't require sewing anything (except for running the button's/wood's string through the back of the cushion fabric. It's another form of the typical upholstery ring-clip attachment, but a DIYer alternative.

As per your pic, I have a similar sofa in the shop right now. I'll get some pics of the button and/or wood strip procedure and post..... hopefully this evening, depends on how fast/convenient I can do it. Sonny

Reply to
Sonny

The clip and loop explanation makes more sense to me than your previous suggestion. Pictures would be nice though. ;-)

Reply to
DerbyDad03
9 Pics. Scroll right. Attachments are best attached at/near the backside corners of the cushion. Maybe a mid-cushion attachment is ok, but probably not needed. Pic 1) Button on the inside of the cushion covering (cushion sleeve). Button string is run through the back of the cushion, preferably near the corner. A wood strip, rather than a button, is pic 3. Pic 2) I have a dedicated needle for running button string through fabric, plies of fabric, etc. You could use an awl or a 10D or 12D nail to form a hole in the fabric to run the string through. Pic 3) Is a demo wood strip. Drill holes in the strip to attach the string to. May not need a strip of wood, just some crude hand made wooden "buttons". Pic 4) Loop tied in the string just outside the cushion. Pics 5 & 6) A string or 3/8" elastic band is attached to the underside of the ply. The string or elastic band attaches to a hand made "S" hook. A large safety pin would do just fine, rather than an S hook. Pic 7) Again, S hook or safety pin string is attached to the underside of the ply in this photo. Pic 8) Button string loop is connected to the S hook/safety pin. Pic 9) Cushions in place and no one knows any difference.
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Pic 10) Rather than string, the S hook/safety pin can be attached to the ply with 3/8" elastic band.
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Reply to
Sonny

Thanks! Really appreciate it!

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Silicone?

Reply to
gray_wolf

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