I have a Question that no websites seem to be able to answer. recently I bo
ught a new desk and didn't like the colour, I sanded and repainted the draw
ers but the actual desktop will be subjected to more wear and tear than the
paint can handle. I looked into it and it seems you can cover the desk wit
h vinyl but I'm unsure what glues to use and if using the same sanding prin
ciple before gluing would possibly work? If anyone has an answer it would b
e really appreciated.
On 3/5/2016 2:53 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Vinyl what, Elise?
Contact paper? Something like that?
Doubt it would stand up long on a desktop no matter how well it stuck to
How about Formica/Plastic Laminate? That would likely give you the most
durable finish. To complete the job you'd need to use a router (or a
LOT of careful filing) to trim the edges flush but. . . you'd have a
finished job that will last a long time.
I believe you'd get fine results with scuffing the Melamine surface with
80 to 120 grit sandpaper and then affixing the laminate with contact cement.
On Saturday, March 5, 2016 at 8:06:42 PM UTC+10, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
sorry to confuse you...
The Vinyl is more of a material... something akin to leather?
I've seen a lot of desks covered the same way, and I'd much prefer the material to a plastic covering. The only problem is I've seen the end product and not the How To!
On Saturday, March 5, 2016 at 10:05:07 PM UTC-6, Elise Batt wrote:
terial to a plastic covering. The only problem is I've seen the end product
and not the How To!
Material/fabric vinyl would be an upholstery application. The adhesive wou
ld be for a fabric, similar to auto headliner and/or foam adhesive. Your l
ocal auto parts store should have headliner adhesive or maybe your local fa
bric shop will have a fabric/foam adhesive.... usually in a spray can. *H
eadliner/fabric/foam adhesive is all the same thing. https://www.google.co
Should you decide to go with leather, Barge cement (for leather) is the lea
ther industry's adhesive of choice. If you can't find the Barge cement loc
ally, try your local shoe/*boot/saddle repair shop. *Not too many shoe rep
air shops anymore, but some cowboy/western apparel stores have a boot repai
r department... or may know of a boot/saddle repair shop.
In either case, do a test gluing first, to see how things (fabric and wood)
work, before committing to your project.
For moderate-large surface areas, lay your fabric out onto its proposed sur
face, then fold half of the fabric back onto itself. Apply the adhesive on
half of both mating surfaces, then fold the glue-applied fabric back onto
its surface. Then fold the other half of the fabirc back onto itself, app
ly adhesive to both mating surfaces, then attach those surfaces. In both c
ases of gluing/mating, press from the center outward, as you lay the fabric
onto the surface(s).
Some cheap vinyls and naugahydes have a tendency to stretch. Select a more
commercial grade vinyl, that doesn't stretch and/or is not soft/rubbery (c
ompression). Try not to stretch/distort your vinyl, as you lay the glued su
rfaces down. You do want some tightness, though, to its tension across the
surface. Just don't pull or over-stretch the fabric, causing it to distor
t across its surface. Does this make sense?
Application of a trim, around/along the edges, is an option, also.
Otherwise, you might want to pay an upholsterer to glue the vinyl (& trim?)
onto your (*pre-prepped, sanded, raw wood) desktop.
On Sat, 5 Mar 2016 00:53:15 -0800 (PST), email@example.com wrote:
Why you bought something you didn't like I don't know, but gluing an
"arborite" type top to the desk with contact cement would likely be
the most effective solution at this poit. Either that or paint it and
cover it with a sheet of tempered glass (a whole lot more expensive
On Sunday, March 6, 2016 at 4:03:32 AM UTC+10, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
ahaha, thats a good point, I bought the desk because it was the only one th
at had enough drawer space and would fit in my tiny apartment. Unfortunatel
y the desk didn't come in my colour choice... arborite is pretty much the s
ame as laminate and I really don't like the feel or overall look of plastic
coverings. (which is why i wanted the vinyl - its a leather look alike tha
t I chose instead of leather, because I didnt want the leather damaged by s
On Sat, 5 Mar 2016 20:18:03 -0800 (PST), Elise Batt
How about a chunk of solid surface countertop? I think you can get it
down to about 1/4" and you could have it made with a full thickness
edge on it to totally hide the edge of the original top. Not cheap,
but lots of chaice in colour/pattern and very durable..
My "arborite" desk top is over 25 years old and has had a lot of use o
it started with a woodgrain texture, and a few spots are polished
smooth, but the pattern is still there.
On Saturday, March 5, 2016 at 11:18:07 PM UTC-5, Elise Batt wrote:
that had enough drawer space and would fit in my tiny apartment. Unfortunat
ely the desk didn't come in my colour choice... arborite is pretty much the
same as laminate and I really don't like the feel or overall look of plast
ic coverings. (which is why i wanted the vinyl - its a leather look alike t
hat I chose instead of leather, because I didnt want the leather damaged by
We have been using Forbo, a type of linoleum, for the writing surfaces on n
ew high end desks and study carrels at a major university renovation...
On Sunday, March 6, 2016 at 6:19:09 AM UTC-5, email@example.com wrote:
e that had enough drawer space and would fit in my tiny apartment. Unfortun
ately the desk didn't come in my colour choice... arborite is pretty much t
he same as laminate and I really don't like the feel or overall look of pla
stic coverings. (which is why i wanted the vinyl - its a leather look alike
that I chose instead of leather, because I didnt want the leather damaged
by spilled drinks)
new high end desks and study carrels at a major university renovation...
well now you explained the type of vinyl. Contact cement the vinyl on,
start in the very middle have 2 people hold the corners up and spread it
out from the middle toward the corners. use a plastic spreader that they
use for wall coverings.
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