I have been using Elmers Ultimate glue on a project and I have found it expands
leaves nasty glue marks on the outside of the finish project that I have been
In very tight corners it is most nearly impossible to sand, especially across
With the old Elmers wood glue or white glue. I used to wipe it down with water
and that would
remove most, if not all of the glue so sanding would not be a problem and the
wood would take
a nice stain.
Is there a way one can prevent or easily remove the extra residue of Ultimate
glue or gorilla glue
before it dries so I don't have the problems of sanding in tight corners?
Does anyone have any special tricks up their proverbial sleeves?
Throw the cr^h^h stuff out.
For what specific purpose/need are you using a urethane glue, anyway?
It's only real advantage is if you _must_ have a fully waterproof (not
water-resistant) glue, otherwise yellow glues are as strong as or
stronger than the wood itself (as is demonstrated that edge joints will
hold and the material break rather than the joint itself). Besides the
foaming and difficult cleanup, the open and clamping time for these is
much longer than for yellow glues which slows down progress. So,
unless there's a real purpose not otherwise served, I recomend going
back to a regular wood glue. If you need the water resistance, look
into Type II or Type III water solubles.
Expansion and foaming are characteristics of polyurethane adhesives. If you
don't specifically need their properties then stay with one of the PVA
Best bet, as others have suggested, is to mask.
Don't use too much, use blue tape to collect the squeeze out. Polyurethane
is a very good glue and has its uses. Do not assume it's expansion
characteristics will fill a poorly made joint, it will fill it, but it has
virtually no strength when used this way. I use it on projects that will be
exposed to weather or dampness and if I need the added open/working time
polyurethane glue provides.
As for polyurethane glue - tried it (naive enough to believe the ads).
Found it seriously wanting, especially in outdoor usages. For
For my money, its TiteBond III for external usages and plastic resin glue
for things that need a long open time. (Saw David Marks use a lot of
plastic resin glue, now I know why)
To date, I have not been disappointed in either. Also, both are much easier
to clean up.
What I use to remove excess glue from corners is just a scraper
designed to get into corners (They are usually are available in sets
at most hardware and paint stores) being metal they are easy to clean
off. If you have any excess that squeezed between the scraper and
wood, try wrapping a solvent dampened rag around the scrapper and
scrub a little.
Hope this helps
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