Venting outside looks good on the surface but would totally destroy heat/AC bills, not to mention humidity. You're talking about exhausting 1k cfm of conditioned air to the outside, replaced by whatever is outside. Talking about leaving all the doors and windows open! Not my plan. OTOH, a garage or out-building for a compressor makes sense.
e:
the system works pretty good.
imilar setup and problem. Liking my lungs, I dumped the (almost ain't no b ag there) bag that came with my HF 1.5hp/1250cfm (in your dreams) dust coll ector and put a .5micron bag on it. Through put really did not go down all that much, but was not what I wanted either.
gh put, right? Not really, though through put did increase.
') building with a 39gal garbage can in in to catch any chips that got thro ugh the cyclone. To keep things from getting too uncontrolled, I covered the garbage can with burlap, thinking with the holes in it, the chips will be contained but the pressure and dust can vent.
wn. So, I removed the burlap and the cfm went way up.
erflow from when the collection can on the cyclone had gotten full, without my realizing it.. I flipped the switch on the DC and almost blew her out of the building (yeah, I know, but there was a lot of air coming through t he pipe.). It seems the back pressure from the garbage can was really cutt ing into the through put. As I had vent area under the door and in the bac k of the building. I removed the can and shut the door. Through put remai ned so high that HF CD was getting near 1,100 CFM.
ex pipe connecting the machines, cyclone and collection can, 1.5hp HF motor /impeller and 4" discharge pipe into the exterior building.
Can you say Energy Recovery Ventilator?
With no impediment to the exhaust? They don't plug up with wet sawdust (as the sawdust-laden air cools)? Do they transfer the moisture too? Still think it's a lousy idea. Cleaning the air, instead of exhausting it, should be a lot easier and cheaper.
e:
rote:
but the system works pretty good.
a similar setup and problem. Liking my lungs, I dumped the (almost ain't n o bag there) bag that came with my HF 1.5hp/1250cfm (in your dreams) dust c ollector and put a .5micron bag on it. Through put really did not go down all that much, but was not what I wanted either.
rough put, right? Not really, though through put did increase.
3x5') building with a 39gal garbage can in in to catch any chips that got t hrough the cyclone. To keep things from getting too uncontrolled, I cover ed the garbage can with burlap, thinking with the holes in it, the chips wi ll be contained but the pressure and dust can vent.down. So, I removed the burlap and the cfm went way up.
overflow from when the collection can on the cyclone had gotten full, with out my realizing it.. I flipped the switch on the DC and almost blew her out of the building (yeah, I know, but there was a lot of air coming throug h the pipe.). It seems the back pressure from the garbage can was really c utting into the through put. As I had vent area under the door and in the back of the building. I removed the can and shut the door. Through put re mained so high that HF CD was getting near 1,100 CFM.
flex pipe connecting the machines, cyclone and collection can, 1.5hp HF mo tor/impeller and 4" discharge pipe into the exterior building.
As for the plugging, no, the discharge empties through the roof of the litt le out building (with a half moon on the door, of course). When the chip b ucket on the cyclone overflows, I do get debris that I need to clean out, b ut other than that, the vents below the door and under the back wall both a llow the building to stay dry. Could you explain your math to me? The set up cost me exactly two sheets o f exterior ply, a couple 2x4, two lengths of sewer pipe (no connector need ed) and one elbow.
e:
the system works pretty good.
imilar setup and problem. Liking my lungs, I dumped the (almost ain't no b ag there) bag that came with my HF 1.5hp/1250cfm (in your dreams) dust coll ector and put a .5micron bag on it. Through put really did not go down all that much, but was not what I wanted either.
gh put, right? Not really, though through put did increase.
') building with a 39gal garbage can in in to catch any chips that got thro ugh the cyclone. To keep things from getting too uncontrolled, I covered the garbage can with burlap, thinking with the holes in it, the chips will be contained but the pressure and dust can vent.
wn. So, I removed the burlap and the cfm went way up.
erflow from when the collection can on the cyclone had gotten full, without my realizing it.. I flipped the switch on the DC and almost blew her out of the building (yeah, I know, but there was a lot of air coming through t he pipe.). It seems the back pressure from the garbage can was really cutt ing into the through put. As I had vent area under the door and in the bac k of the building. I removed the can and shut the door. Through put remai ned so high that HF CD was getting near 1,100 CFM.
ex pipe connecting the machines, cyclone and collection can, 1.5hp HF motor /impeller and 4" discharge pipe into the exterior building.
Your heat loss only happens when the unit is running, which, in my shop, is not all that much, as I only have it on when its needed to collect dust fr om a tool I am using at the time.
Then there is the minor fact of not having either heat or cool in the shop. ;-) But living in southern Alabama, the winters are not all that bad and the fan handles most of the hot in the summer. However, if I were in the f rozen north, the exhaust might cool the shop off a bit, but we are only ta lking a 4"duct, and one that is not sucking air all the time.
But it'll change all the air in your house in just a few minutes.
Living in South Alabama, I'm sure you're concerned about humidity. All that fresh air is humid as all hell. If you shop is unheated and not air conditioned, you don't care. Might just as well work outside. ;-) In South Alabama? Not my idea of fun (lived in E. Central AL for three years, now in Atlanta).
Yes, a dry day here is when the humidity is anywhere near 50%, Its usually up around the upper 60's. While I could close up the gable ends and heat the place, given how moist things stay, I would need a huge dehumidifier. But even if I did get the humidity down to what we woodworkers consider a g ood range, when the piece left the shop, its going to soak up the moisture in the air. But give me the "Green" we have here to the "tan" they have ou t west. :-)
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