Here are a few tricks for pattern transfers. For these you have to use a
photocopy or laser printer output. One way to transfer the image is to set
your pattern (printed side down) on the wood piece and iron it with a very
hot flat (i.e. clothes) iron. This softens the toner and allows some of it
to transfer to the wood. Using the same technique but without the iron,
apply the pattern to the wood (printed side down) and dampen the back of the
paper with mineral spirits. This will also transfer some of the toner to the
I personally have never tried these ideas but have heard they work.
CH-47D Chinook Pilot
I also use a computer to draw shapes. If I need to make a large
template, whether it's an oval, or a completely free form design, I
scale it at 1:4 on the computer, then take it to Kinko's who can enlarge
it 4:1 . . . i.e. . . to accurate full scale. This assumes of course
that your design can fit on a single page at 1:4. I then use 3m adhesive
or clear schotch tape to apply it to the wood substrate and cut away . .
.If your shape doesn't fit on a single page at 1:4, then you have to
tile multiple pages together.
Or print it on a large format printer, also at some Kinko's. One Kinko's in
this area has a 48" wide printer. I think you can do it from home and have
the FedEx guy deliver the output.
Rick, note that not all enlargements are accurate. Frequently things are
enlarged in one direction more than in the other. There are other optical
distortions which can occur as well. For a table top it might not matter,
but always check your final drawing to see that it is correct before cutting
Print it out in multiple sheets, lay it on the wood and run a pounce wheel
along the lines to be cut. Dust chalk on the line, and remove the sheets.
"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know
for sure that just ain't so."
Not sure who even started this thread but it appears to have ended up as a
thread on new math
And i do not know even if this will work for you.
It is what i use to draw an oval
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