Drawer material preference

Poplar

If the guides are done right it is six of one and half a dozen of the other. Which ever you feel right with.

There would, of course, be no nylon in a traditional mission piece. The width of your drawers may also make it difficult to use the more traditional methods and that would satisfy someone who is used to modern drawer slides.

The problem you are going to find with traditional methods, particular with a drawer that is that much wider than it is deep, is that it is difficult to close evenly without side to side movement, which has a tendency to cause one side to bind when you have wood on wood contact. This is not insurmountable, but does require some know how and extra care.

If authenticity is NOT what you're shooting for in your piece, I'd say go for the modern drawer slides of your choice. You're going to find them more friendly, all around, then wood on wood, particularly for the ladies of the house.

That said, if you do want to stay with a more traditional approach, consider routing a groove in the middle of both drawer sides and using hardwood runners attached to the case for guides. Alternately, you could use a dovetail runner on the bottom, which would be traditional for sure.

Have you thought about two 18 - 20" drawers, in lieu of one 40"? Make it easier to stay "rational, and a 40" wide span on a drawer bottom is going to pose some problems of its own with regard to sagging.

Just some thoughts ...

If I do use dovetails, I was considering using two per drawer to combat the binding.

I already broke from traditional already by using Red Oak instead of quartersawn White Oak. I am leading towards the ball bearing, full extension, blum slides.

Yes, the thought of the 1/4" drawer bottom sagging has crossed my mind. If I go with ball bearing drawer slides, the guides would be on the outsides. One thought I had would be to but a couple of 1/2" thick hardwood strips dadoed into the front drawer face and into the back drawer face.

Roland

Just about any wood will work for a drawer but if you have access to reasonably priced maple that is what I would recommend. Makes a beautiful strong drawer. Use dovetail joints for the front corners and make the bottom removable. For large drawers I like to plane my material down to

While not the traditional approach Blum Tandem slides are hidden, provide full extension and like you said are super smooth with excellent closing action. What do you have to pay for Blum Tandem slides? I found a supplier on the internet that has the 21" slides for less than $20 per set which is not that much more than side mounted slides. I bought 6 just a few weeks back and got excellent service. Ordered them on a Friday they shipped the following Monday and they Emailed me the UPS tracking number the next day.

I like to use 1/4" +- plywood covered with plastic laminate for drawer bottoms. Earl Creel

Would you care to share the name of this supplier? dean s

I found some for $24.95 + $2.55 for the orange locking device at...

Where's the source you found?

If I use the Blum tandems I won't be able to keep the drawer sides flush with the drawer front and use a dovetail joint. The sides need to be inset

Roland.

I think Stickley would have gone for the modern slides had they been available. If you can't see it, who cares? Unless your going to be competing in some kind of contest.

Just my opinion.

manzanar

I am using 1/2' Meranti on all my drawers. If you ever consider using ball bearing slide on your drawers, it will set you back over $20 plus per set. I am using ball bearing slide on most of my 20 plus shop cabinets. I pay less than $6 for ball bearing slides up to 24".

I have 10 extra sets each of 20" and 24" and I can sell you $10.99 per set excluding shipping and insurance. The slides are new and excellent quality equals in performance to Accuride. I will guarantee it.

Like to buy one and try with guarantee return if you do not like it for any reasons.