Dovetail Jig Questionj

Richard Shelson wrote in news:NImIc.1007370$Pk3.546509@pd7tw1no:

No need to apologize. It's REC.woodworking.

So, Richard, what do you want to build? How many DT's do you want to cut? Through, half-blind, or some of the more specialized ones? Do you already own a good router, or is it one of the weekend warrior, less than US$100 kind from the local home center?

Buying a dovetail jig to match a set of bits you have seems a little like choosing a truck, because you were given a set of snow tires by a family member. You MAY not end up with what you really needed or wanted, in order to save really very few bucks.

Dovetail jigs run from cheap/useful/limited function to expensive/versatile/industrial quality. A Google search of the rec.woodworking archives will reveal many good, but personal, insights. You'll also find quite a few folks who believe that cutting them by hand builds character, craftsmanship and points with discriminating observers. That may be true, but if you're trying to build a kitchen full of drawers in your spare time after work, a jig looks mighty helpful.

Patriarch

I use 1/2" shank bits with my Porter Cable 12" dovetail jig. It works just fine.

Richard, Most dovetail jugs use 1/4" or 8MM shank sizes to accomodate the space between the fingers of the jig. In addition to the bit, a guide collar is also needed, preventing the use of the larger-diameter bit shanks. I do not recall ever seeing a dovetail jig that would use the

Tom Hintz

I own two Porter Cable jigs...

The "cheap version" and the Omnijig(the very heavy duty version) and they both use either the 1/2" or 1/4" dovetail bit with no problem. The same guide collar is ALWAYS used in dovetail jigs regardless of bit size.

Tom H> Richard,

Take a look at the Porter Cable 12".

The leigh d4 will work with 1/4", 8mm, and 1/2" bits. You use a 5/8" collar for the half inch. The only advantage I can see to the 1/4" bits would be narrower pins.

brian