I have been using an Akeda dovetail jig and just ruined the guide bushing. It is marked 0.438", which is the exterior diameter. I can pay $25 ( 1/2 is shipping) or use an old Porter Cable bushing which varies about .002 to .003 in diameter as you go around it with a micrometer.
I find it hard to believe that that .002" variation would be a problem. An ybody had this experience and how did you resolve it.
Thanks Len
. It is marked 0.438", which is the exterior diameter. I can pay $25 ( 1/
2 is shipping) or use an old Porter Cable bushing which varies about .002 t o .003 in diameter as you go around it with a micrometer.Anybody had this experience and how did you resolve it.
Well, 0.438" = 7/16" (0.4375) so you could get a whole set of bushings, i ncluding a 7/16 bushing from grizzly for $30.
Regardless I doubt 2-3 thou are going to hurt a wood dovetail joint. Honest ly there is probably 5 thou tolerance when they make that cheap bushing. Do es the 0.438 show exact. I think you could wear off a few thou with minimal usage.
I have been using an Akeda dovetail jig and just ruined the guide bushing. It is marked 0.438", which is the exterior diameter. I can pay $25 ( 1/2 is shipping) or use an old Porter Cable bushing which varies about .002 to .003 in diameter as you go around it with a micrometer.
I find it hard to believe that that .002" variation would be a problem. Anybody had this experience and how did you resolve it.
Thanks Len
About 0.004 is all it takes to show up as a gap in a joint.
Tom
I have an Akeda and they're pretty fussy about the guide bushing. Check it out and see if the wall is not thinner, and the barrel a different size than a 7/16" PC guide bushing.
I'm pretty sure you will have problems by not using the Akeda guide bushing, but it might be worth a try as long as the differences noted above don't somehow damage the fingers or another part of the jig, so do it with caution.
If it was me, I would spring for the correct bushing ... you need the gods in your favor with any dovetail jig.
-------------------------------------------------------- Based on my limited experience with dovetail jigs is that if the cutter bit and the guide bushing are not totally concentric with one another and the depth of cut is dead on, you are screwed.
I'd sit tight and wait for the Akeda part to arrive.
This is truly a case of patience is a virtue.
Lew
I agree I actually picked up an extra accessory kit off e-bay I haven't even opened just to have as many extra parts on hand as possible. These jigs work really well, but I would hate to have to add a factor for a wrong size bushing when trying to adjust for fit.
Mike M
. It is marked 0.438", which is the exterior diameter. I can pay $25 ( 1/
2 is shipping) or use an old Porter Cable bushing which varies about .002 t o .003 in diameter as you go around it with a micrometer.Anybody had this experience and how did you resolve it.
Try the PC bushing on some scrap and see if you like the results...A coupla thou ~might~ make a difference.
RP
Perhaps more critical, the flange diameter. Eccentricity is your enemy alright, but if the flange on the ring swims in the subbase counterbore, you're worse off!
Not positive on the error you're talking about. Wall thickness or OD? A variable wall thickness is innocuous. A screwed up OD can be a problem.
Centering your ring to the cutter, an issue? See:
With the Akeda, also the _length_ of the flange itself needs to be considered when deciding what will work, or not.
IIRC, there are some operation on the Akeda, finger joints for one, that require a specific flange length for safe and accurate operation.
7/16" Porter Cable and Akeda guide bushing, side by side:
But the concentricity is controlled by the router base, not the guide bushing. The depth is controlled by the router (and bit insertion). I guess I don't follow this.
In a similar vein, I recently bought (still in the box) a PC dovetail jig. They have their own guides and bits with no sizes, just numbers. Are other bits usable?
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