While it makes sense, it is against code in many places. Years ago, in my old house, someone tried to break in by the basement door by breaking out a pane of glass. The double keyed deadbolt kept them out.
Code or not, I have them in this house too.
We have a big set of French doors (one fixed) on the back of the house. They are both full glass panels. I don't see the purpose of a double keyed deadbolt on full glass doors. If someone breaks the glass to get to the deadbolt.... they can walk right through the giant opening in the door.
This ain't like the movies where they stick a suction cup on the glass, cut a circle in the glass, pop it out and reach in to the deadbolt. This is safety glass, you try to cut it, it breaks into a million little glass pebbles in a pile on the floor.
Ours have multiple panes. An intruder would have to break several panes and the muntins. If I'm not there........I'm insured. If I *am* there, by the time the intruder gained access I would have my
40 S&W ready to discourage further intrusion. And......Texas has the Castle Doctrine.
Are you serious? ============================================================================== Yes, I am as I don't have any burglar friendly exterior doors.
I read that... I took a tangent. :-)
Get the router template and use the router - what most "pros" do now.
If you have glass doors a deadbolt isn't going to stop anybody. They'll just bust out the glass and walk through.
It makes a big difference when filing the claim. With the broken door that is no questioning the "breaking" and entering.
Yes it will damage your house but do you leave your doors unlocked.
Of course I am the type that when I had my convertible and parked it with the top down, would lock the doors.
After getting feedback here, looking at the door a few times, and reading a bit, I thought I would provide an update (before I commence cutting and pounding).
My wife observed that the door/door frame, screen door, etc. probably used to be on the front of the house.
Drywall goes up to the hinge side of the frame. Once I cut some of the drywall away, what is holding the door frame and door in place should be revealed! My 24"-level indicates that the hinge side of the frame is close enough to vertical.
The jamp on the hinge side is actually slightly narrower at the top and bottom than at the middle. And except for the gap being just a little wider on the hinge side than the latch side, this is just the opposite of the situation on the latch side (where the jamp is slightly wider in the middle than at the top and bottom). The top and latch side have not been shimmed.
If the entire door frame needs to be shimmed, I hope that whatever is holding the door in place now will not get in the way (this seems like a key potential problem to me).
I'll refrain from writing more so that I don't obfuscate things. As a minimum, I could shim the top and latch side with hopes that this would take care of my winter-time problem of the door not closing tight. I think that's what my dad would advise--but not because he had any special expertise with doors; I think he would have me listen to you.
I'm going to close this door, while I go work on my worktable.
Bill
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