Light is controlled by a relay(mechanical or SS, probably mechanical
being old) Start from bulb socket backward.. It could be even a cracked
solder joint on the circuit board or loose contact inside the socket, etc.
If it is similar to my old Sears opener, the light timing is determined by a
small coil of heater wire around a bi-metallic strip. When the door opens
the strip's contacts are closed to turn on the light with the motor power,
the heater also turns on and after an approximate amount of time bends the
strip with the heat and opens the contact which turns the light off. Pretty
crude. The strip gets soft and tired and does not always return to the
"normal" position, which means the contacts don't close and the light
doesn't come on. Mine works intermittently and more in winter than in
summer, probably because the cold helps the weak strip to sometimes return
to its "normal" position. I cannot see how it would be repairable without
replacement timer strip, and I do not think Sears would have repair parts
for my 34 year old opener.
The fix could be as simple as reaching into the socket with something
like a popsicle stick and bending the center tab contact out a bit so
it makes contact with the base contact of the light bulb.
I was installing high voltage transformers from the underground power
service at the missile range where I was working as an electrician and
the electrical superintendent and I had borrowed an old wooden hot stick
from the island power plant. The super was wearing leather gloves
under high voltage insulated gloves and when he grabbed the 4,160 volt
connection to plug it in, his hair stood on end and he felt that
uncomfortable tingling all over his body. Even though the hot stick felt
dry, there was enough moisture in the wood to conduct an irritating jolt
through it and the insulating gloves. Our own fiberglass hot sticks
arrived in the next shipping container a few days
later and we were very glad to see them. :-)
re: "wooden hot stick"
Are you referring to what we called a "Dead Man Stick" back when I was
in the USCG?
A wooden rod with a metal hook screwed into the end and a braided
ground strap with a spring loaded clamp on the end?
This doc refers to them as a "Pull Away Cane (Dead Man Stick)" on page
It's been over 30 years since I was in the USCG but it looks like the
term is still in use - even officially.
We used them to teach the non-technical personnel why they should stay
out of the transmitter building when we weren't around.
We'd charge up a big oil filled capacitor with a hi-pot and then turn
out the lights and short it out with the dead man stick. One group of
newbies (as well as few old timers) were really convinced when we
charged the cap up too much and it blew the threaded rod right out of
the wooden handle. The journeyman tech that was holding the stick
almost sh*t his pants!
In broadcast engineering we called that a Jesus stick. We used it to
dissipate residual high voltage in the transmitters and power supplies
so you weren't sent to meet Jesus. A hot stick on the other hand is an
insulated pole of varying lengths with a metal hook on the end with no
grounding strap. It is meant to grab fittings in order to change fuses,
operate switches and disconnect plugs on energized high voltage gear.
You will often see power company linemen use a long hot stick to change
fuses on power poles while standing on the ground or shorter sticks from
an elevated bucket on a bucket truck. :-)
On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 01:39:42 +0000, slkatz_at_comcast_dot email@example.com
You'll have to check with HeyBub about the bubs.
Did you verify that the new bubs worked in another lamp?
Because it's hard to work on something up high, I myself would get
into the socket with some meter probes and see if there is 110 v AC
there, or what if anything is there.
Otherwise, I guess there is a relay that could break inside the box --
I seem to have a broken relay in a microwave, but since it's not fixed
yet, I'm not sure.
But there woudl be other parts in the circuit, to do the timing. I
gues with a ladder you can be as high as the opener, but don't let the
garage door knock your head off when you're testing the light.
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