I have an old heavy Sears tablesaw. Besides, I have a hand circular
saw, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and a radial saw. The tablesaw takes
space in my garage and I have not used it in a while. I do not make
fancy things like furniture etc. Just crude stuff for my projects that
is of secondary nature (like an enclosure for a phase converter or a
doghouse for a generator).
So, what I am getting at is, are there any real life needs for a
tablesaw given that I have other saws. I suspect that the answer is
no. If so, perhaps I can sell the tablesaw and free up some space.
Any thoughts? Do I need a tablesaw?
Ignoramus21895 (in ezOJe.1$ firstname.lastname@example.org) said:
| Any thoughts? Do I need a tablesaw?
If you don't use it, then it doesn't do you any good to keep it. In my
case, I'd give up almost any other saw in my shop before I gave up my
DeSoto, Iowa USA
That's the exact reverse for me where I use the table saw almost everyday
but hardly touch my radial arm saw. All that is I know is the tool that I
get rid off today or misplaced is the tool that I will need to buy
tomorrow - so I'm keeping everything and let the wife bitch until I built
the storage/shop in the backyard.
I worked for a company (29 years) that sold both. Table saws out sold radial
arm saws to a point it wasn't even a race. The radial arm saws did beat out
the table saws in one area though, they beat the table saws back to the
service department for repairs, probably by a 100 to 1 ratio. RM~
PS, In all fairness, I will say that this was in the days before very many
direct drive table saws were sold. They probably evened up the score a tad.
I have access to both and use both.
TS excells for ripping, RAS for crosscutting, especially for repeating
If you have both, you'll use both.
If you have one or the other, you'll be prefectly happy, and doubtless
become a partisan for your prefered machine.
A RAS needs space along a wall, versus a TS needing space all around,
which is probably more important a consideration than any other for most
My first large saw was a RAS. I used it for about 6 years amd built most of
the furniture in my house with it. Then I added a TS and never used the RAS
again. About 8 years later I added a CMS and used it untill I up graded to
a cabinet saw. I use the cabinet saw for everything now and seldom use the
CMS. More than anything I think the quality of the saw determines how much
you are going to use it. I have absolutely no problem making repeated exact
length cross cuts, miters, and compound miters hundreds of times with the TS
and a proper jig set up or sled.
silly me assuming equal quality. The RASes I've used are old, solid
Craftman units from the '60s. The TS is similar vintage.
I've not seen any current production RAS that I'd buy apart from the
Delta 12" model the Borgs have for cutting millwork to size.
That model looks comparable to current Unisaw/Powermatic offerings, for
a price point in the same ballpark.
It's always been evident to me that building a usuable TS is a much
simpler matter than building a usuable RAS. The lack of the RAS
equivalent to a Grizzley contractor saw would seem to indicate that
manufacturers agree--though I've never seen DeWalt's (irrc) offering up
I don't find ripping comfortable on an RAS, but my wife's uncle has only
a RAS and a miniscule shop and thinks I'm foolish for wanting a CS
rather than an RAS.
At a similar price point, the machines are more or less interchangable
and it comes down to preference.
The TS is an early '60's Craftsman with a cast iron top and a shop-made
roller stand. About the size/weight/motor of a modern contractor saw,
but only a 9" blade. The fence is fussy, but it stays in place once you
set it up. An outfeed table and you're in business.
Both RASes are late '60's vintage 10" models, and hold their adjustment
for literal YEARS, my usual victim in hobbyest use for my Dad and me,
SWMBO's uncle in moderate commercial use.
I'm still buying the 5HP Powermatic with my lottery winnings.
It is a device that produces 3 phase power from single phase power. A
rotary phase converter can be made in several different ways, but they
always include a large 3 phase motor that is called an "idler". That
idler, as it spins in the magnetic field generated by the single phase
leg, produces phase shifted power in the third leg.
The challenge is to make the idler spin up. Once it starts spinning,
it can continue to run on single phase power.
My phase converter has a 10 HP idler motor, and start capacitors that
are used for starting (and are never switched off sincethey are
Its pictures and the story can be seen at
My rotary phase converter cost me $45 to make. A similar new RPC would
cost approximately $600 plus shipping.
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