I have a Delta 36-426 and am trying to cut 1 1/2" hard maple.
I've tried a Freud 30 tooth combination blade. Got one cut out and
was unable to make a second cut.
I've tried a Delta 24 tooth fast ripping blade. Machine locked up and
Is this just more than my saw can do or am I missing something???????
Make the cut in two passes. Cut 1/2 way through, flip (keeping same side to
fence) and finish the cut.
I have the 36-444 with a 1 1/2hp motor. Ran 8/4 mahogany with one cut using
a Freud 24 tooth blade. Just went slowly. If you hear the motor change
pitch, slow down.
Do you have the saw plugged into a long extension cord? Do you have a
splitter installed? Are you cutting reaction wood and the kerf is closing on
you and bogging the saw down?
Dave gave you good advice for starters .. make two passes. .. either flip
the board as he suggests, or do two, or more, successive depth of cuts in
the same kerf, referencing the same face against the fence.
Even then, that sometimes won't work on reaction wood.
If the wood is closing up on you pulling the saw down, make sure you have a
splitter installed ... that is the safest way to handle the situation. If
that is indeed the case, and you have no splitter, it is possible to wedge
the cut past the blade ... although that is best left to someone who has
done it before, as it can be a dicey operation. Obviously, you would not
attempt to wedge a kerf with the saw running, and start up can be
surprising. That said, reaction wood is often not worth dealing with after a
cut, so you may just want to grab another piece.
This is a sincere post and ClemsonDave is correct... I am using a
Delta 10" contractor ts 30" Unifence. I'm clearly not experienced
which is why I've asked for help. That being said, thank you all for
I do have the blade on correctly, I'm not plugged into an extention
cord, but I do not have a splitter installed. I think that was a very
good idea. I will also try cutting in two passes. Slow and steady
wins the race.
Again, thank you all for your words of wisdom.
P.S. I'm a she not "he" Scott. Might also explain why I'm having
some trouble :)
email@example.com (ashe) wrote in message news:
I think it's 99% certain that your troubles reside with the wood, not
the saw. As a woodworker, you will find that some wood turns out to
have internal stresses that cause the piece to want to close up the
kerf and so bind the blade. the forces involved can be quite amazing
and definitely capable of stalling a 1.5 HP table saw. This tendency
is especially prevalent with thicker stock (i.e. more than 4/4/) and
especially a problem with maple. It has do with the way the tree grew
and/or the board was cut out of it at the mill and/or the stock was
dried by the kiln and/or the species involved. Maybe you can control
for some of these factors, but, bottom line, solid wood works
differently from a homeogenous, predictable product like, say, MDF or
plywood. Obviously, it is dangerous to have the blade saw with the
power to the motor, so you must do everything possible to avoid it.
Although not its main purpose, the splitter can help to prevent
binding and you should put the stock one back on the saw for ripping,
or better yet, buy one of the better ones that Delta and Bies. sell.
Using a rip blade helps too.
..The ideal solution is to rough rip stock that experience tells you
may be problematic slightly overwidth on the bandsaw first, then go to
the table saw. A bandsaw cuts differently from a circular saw and is
less prone to getting bound up and much less dangerous when it does
so. Of course, maybe you don't have a bandsaw yet, in which case you
will need to find workarounds with the tablesaw, like those suggested.
Ashley that only means two things:
- You're smarter than most of us because you noticed the problem and stopped
- You're smarter than most of us, well, just because you are
Put that splitter back on, quick.
Some other sincere questions: the blade nice n' sharp? blade at right
height? you standing off to one side in case of kickback? got'chur safety
glasses on? gotch'ur push sticks handy? keeping your fingers/hands clear?
First try the other suggestions, such as blade binding etc., but you can
also put on a smaller blade, I assume you have a 10" changing to an 8 1/4"
will still let you cut to 2 1/4" but there will be less load placed on the
...never experienced "machine lock-up" on a belt-drive (have smelled burning
rubber though) and can't believe that it would happen with 1 1/2" anywood
with a good blade unless things (binding against fence, blade square to the
table, etc) are so out of whack that the thermal overload on the motor took
over. My first thought was electrical. Do the lights dim when you bring
the saw under load? If so an earlier question was asked about extension
cords...undersized will reduce the power to the motor (but will give heat in
the shop if that is desirable and doesn't get to bon-fire stage). You say
no so next question is are you running 12ga or 10ga wire to the machine in
the first place? (IMHO 14ga wire should be outlawed but builders sometimes
like it to save a few pennies per foot). Did you check the power cord
connection to the switch and motor?
Maybe switching to 40 tooth carbide blade will help...I am alone here in my
praise of the Oldham blades (sold at HD for around $17) for general
use...rougher cut but they take a beating like no blade I've seen elsewhere
and jointer clean-up at 1/32nd gives me the same results as the 60 tooth
I've managed to stall a link-belt equipped Delta Contractor, when ripping
salvage 2x4 stock that closed up on the blade. I'm not sure of the wood; it
was 'spacer' stock for keeping the metal banding off the 'good stuff'.
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