DC layout - will I ever want a belt or disk sander?

heat is the issue. the longer the belt the less heat buildup so the faster you can run it. it will last far longer too. but if you run a smaller belt faster the heat will burn the wood and make the belt wear far faster.

it's hard to sand straight with any belt sander. only if the belts are pretty fresh. as usual it tends to round over things. the belt well usually cut on the ends faster then in the middle same with the edges of the belt.

Maybe the question should be:

How do I set up my ducting to allow for expansion?

Sooner or later you WILL add some sort of dust producing tool, or maybe just re-arrange the ones you have.

I leave an extra "wye" fitting at every dead end, with a short piece of pipe and a cap duct taped to the extra hole.. Adding more duct is easy. My system is PVC, so the fittings are cheap enough.

The extra opening also facilitates removing the occasional blockage.

Barry

On Sun, 06 Feb 2005 14:35:47 GMT, the inscrutable Larry Kraus spake:

Abbalooley.

Buy a complete DC kit from

NOTE: The vinyl tubing from Amazon comes from Penn State and reeks to high heaven when you open the 4' long box. I took my coil and strung it across my patio overnight to let the vinyl smell diminish. That helped a -whole- lot. It's the flexible type with a wire core which tries to contract when a vacuum is applied, so lay/hang and brace it accordingly.

-------------------------------------------- Proud (occasional) maker of Hungarian Paper Towels.

see,

I'm trying to have one main run straight of the DC and then wye into it only. But it seems I'm going to need to do a 45 jog to move the line to the perimiter of the building to keep the duct out of the work area

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Along that run, will be wye's to the TS, jointer, BS, DP, MS