Damn stupid

[woodchucker]

I just took a kickback to the gut. I haven't had a kickback on the TS in a long time. Was cutting a piece of tempered hardboard, and the offcut flew back into me.

I was not using my gripper (idiot). My saw is aligned so it usually does not happen, but somehow it did ..

Stupidity.. no I don't stand off to the side, I've been too uncomfortable that way. And I was not wearing my leather apron... Haven't been since I started using for welding.

I am usually careful, but I took a shortcut holding the smallish piece by hand up against the fence... there was enough material contacting the fence, but the offcut caught me by surprise.

Not only is it purple, but it cut me good..

[Bill]

I'm very sorry to hear of your incident. I ordered (Lew's recommended) Bies. splitter earlier today. Would a splitter have made a difference in your circumstances?

[Bill]

Hey, I helped my wife order that for me for Christmas today! That and a basketball.

Bill

[Lew Hodgett]

-----------------------------------------------

Lew

[krw]

That's odd. How big of a piece?

Good to hear that you're OK. The real risk is getting the fingers in the sharp bits.

Since it was the offcut piece, how would alignment have mattered? I don't use the gripper for the table saw. Don't like it. I do use feather boards and push sticks rather liberally, though.

I stand off to the side, but I understand. It doesn't seem natural on a table saw, as it does (at least to me) on a SCMS or RAS.

The fingers are the worry. Small pieces are dangerous.

Ouch. As long as you're not seriously hurt, it's called "education".

[Leon]

Glad to hear that you are able to report the incident. It happens to all of us eventually.

[Swingman]

Sorry to hear that. Sounds like you might not have been using a splitter?

[woodchucker]

No for some reason it caught the front teeth and when it kicked wound up spinning and catching the back then top..

it was only about 5-6 inches long... not going to need the splitter, but definetly needed the gripper.

[jloomis]

I have been there and done this. Sorry......it happens..... You know once when I was working on a side panel for cabinet..... I was almost finished. I decided to cut the side panel.....1/4 " material by about 2' by 30" free hand on table saw..... It grabbed the blade, and made a full circle.... My hands were right there, and lucky I was quick to miss the blade....... Never again..... You know that is why they call them "Accidents" John

I just took a kickback to the gut. I haven't had a kickback on the TS in a long time. Was cutting a piece of tempered hardboard, and the offcut flew back into me.

I was not using my gripper (idiot). My saw is aligned so it usually does not happen, but somehow it did ..

Stupidity.. no I don't stand off to the side, I've been too uncomfortable that way. And I was not wearing my leather apron... Haven't been since I started using for welding.

I am usually careful, but I took a shortcut holding the smallish piece by hand up against the fence... there was enough material contacting the fence, but the offcut caught me by surprise.

Not only is it purple, but it cut me good..

[none]

On Sat, 07 Dec 2013 16:00:28 -0500, woodchucker

Condolences. As painful as it might be, take some solace in the fact that it might have been worse. Broken teeth, eye injury or something else.

[Jeff Mazur]

Live and learn, you were fortunate, come away with new resolve to take the precautions you should.

I just went out and bought a few Under Armour Base 2.0 garments, basically Spandexy, snug, long sleeve thermal undershirts, to wear under my tee shirt when in my shop to stay warm without having a baggy long sleeve shirt thre atening to ruin my day (or life). Highly recommend - they're toasty and sk in-tight.

I'm only just starting in this hobby, so I've not experienced kickback on a TS yet. But I did have an episode with a circ-saw recently, scared the he ll out of me. When a TS kicks, you get flying wood. When you're cutting w ith a hand-held circ-saw, the damn SAW goes jumping around. I may just sta rt using my saber-saw to cross cut stuff after that thrill...

Anybody have good hints as to how to set up support, etc. for circ-saw cros scuts, especially mid-board, where you're trying to keep both sides of the cut intact?

[Lew Hodgett]

I just went out and bought a few Under Armour Base 2.0 garments, basically Spandexy, snug, long sleeve thermal undershirts, to wear under my tee shirt when in my shop to stay warm without having a baggy long sleeve shirt threatening to ruin my day (or life). Highly recommend - they're toasty and skin-tight.

----------------------------------------------------------- Might have to look into the above if these temps continue here in SoCal tonight.

50F is tough duty these days.

----------------------------------------------------- I'm only just starting in this hobby, so I've not experienced kickback on a TS yet. But I did have an episode with a circ-saw recently, scared the hell out of me. When a TS kicks, you get flying wood. When you're cutting with a hand-held circ-saw, the damn SAW goes jumping around. I may just start using my saber-saw to cross cut stuff after that thrill...

Anybody have good hints as to how to set up support, etc. for circ-saw crosscuts, especially mid-board, where you're trying to keep both sides of the cut intact?

-----------------------------------------------------------------

1) Where possible, build a sled for your T/S and use it every time you can. 2) When T/S and sled is not possible, get a sheet of 2" Styrofoam and support it on a piece of 3/4" plywood resting on 2x4's and saw horses.

Keep the cuts in the Styrofoam to about 3/4" max.

Have fun.

Lew

[woodchucker]

I have a cutting grid. basically 2x4s. that are half notched, they fit into each other, I put them on a set of saw horses or on the floor. it supports sheets, large lengths of flat goods..

when I am done I store them flat.

it was cheap, stores efficiently and goes where I want it. Set up time is about 2 minutes.

[dadiOH]

I use a couple of saw horses, 2x4s across them as support, set depth of cut

1/4-1/2" into the 2x4s.

[j]

I suppose there is a lesson there, that even the lowly, what I would call masonite, is as dangerous as any hardwood. I suspect the danger lay in that is more flexible...

Hoping for a good recovery from your war wound. The only ones who never get hurt are the ones who do nothing.

My 24 tooth 10" Freud ripper came a day ago. It looks like it should command respect!

Cheers, Jeff

[Leon]

As previously mentioned I too use a 2x4 2'x8' grid that sets on top of saw horses which also serves as a work surface when I toss a couple of

4'x4' sheets of 3/4" plywood on top.

[krw]

Nice idea! I was planning a 4'x8' cutting table but this sounds like a better idea, or even a "topper". The pieces are easily replaced.

I've basically done the same thing for my truck so I can haul 12' sheetrock (to finish the basement) and siding (this spring's task). I left them whole, vertically, for support, and then used 1/4-20 cross-nuts and bolts to hold it all together.

[Puckdropper]

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:52a3e66f$0$1200 $c3e8da3$ [e-mail]:

I've used thinner foam on the floor when cutting things down. Since the foam is supported by the floor, it only needs to be 3/4" or so thick. I set the blade depth to 1/8" or so below the work piece and cut.

Puckdropper

[Leon]

Actually the foam only has to space the panels apart from each other. Typically I will pile my plywood on top of the 2x4 grid setting on top of my saw horses and place the 3/4' foam between the top and next down sheet.

[krw]

Doesn't the (styro, I assume) foam create all sorts of staticy blobs that stick to everything in the room? I know the track saw is suppose to get it all but from the bottom, too?