I was cutting some 1/8x1/8 strips. I knew they would kick back pretty good
so I got anything breakable out of the way.
One hit the wall 8' back and then bounced 15' nearly hitting the opposite
wall. I wonder what kind of velocity is necessary for a trick like that.
The other 5 were less dramatic.
Yeh, I know I could have avoided it by cutting them off, rather than cutting
them; but the saw was setup perfectly from cutting them to width.
Not kick back, but a similar incident on the SCMS yesterday cutting
triangular shaped 1/8" paduak wood for accent. One piece shattered, sending
slivers around the shop like shrapnel ... one 3" sliver speared me in the
bottom lip and I had to pull it out. It would have gone right through an
... "and there is no more important safety device than these, safety
Take Norm's advice to heart.
One of those faceshields turners use is also very useful. I sure like
It's getting darn near like wearing one of those level 4 biohazard
suits to go safely into the wood shop. Kevlar apron, safety glasses,
hearing protection, face shield & dustfoe. Not to mention dust
collector and sawstop.
Yes, a pushblock. If you know how to make them, they keep complete control
of both pieces. Kickbacks don't always go were you think they will. You'd
look kind of funny with a piece of wood sticking out of your neck.
Yep. The main body lays flat on the table. Make it about 8" wide and
decently long with a handle in the middle.
Cut a bit less than 1/8" off one edge, but leave a bit of a tail on it
to hold the stock.
I have a push block in the shop that will work just fine for cuts of
this sort. My shop teacher made it for me back in high school when he
caught me doing cuts much like you were. He made me carry it with me
every day for the rest of the term so I wouldn't forget how to cut
things. It's been almost 30 years so far, and I haven't forgot yet, so
it must have worked.
a push block would be better than nothing and it should be adequate,
I don't use push blocks, but rather a stick (round or square, about 1"x1")
with a nail in the end works better than anything on the planet. Drive a #6
or #8 casing nail into one end and sharpen the nail with a grinder or file.
About 1" should be sticking out. This will give you control to push the
workpiece toward the fence and away. Any small hole made by the device
will be unnoticeable and can be easily filled if desired. Also it is good
to taper the end where the nail is, a little bit.
For those who would like to flame me, that's cool. But try it first.
woodstuff "have a nice day"
This is a good point, Barry. I never tried that when I used push blocks.
Push blocks are adequate and I am not running them down, and I used them for
over two decades.
My point is that I found a better way for me.
woodstuff "have a nice day"
Cutting something knowing it will kick back is just not smart. You really
should find a way to cut that eliminates or at least significantly reduces
the chance for kickback. Not sure if you were using a table saw but if it
was set up correctly, you shouldn't have this problem.
Lots of comments on the OP's technique so far, but no one answered the
The answer is (suprisingly) not that much velocity. Depending on what type
of strip it was (bendable and heavy is better, hickory better than balsa
:) ), and what type of wall it was (stiff is better), the collision of strip
to wall was very close to perfectly elastic. In english, this means the
strip bounded back with only slightly less velocity than what it came in at.
And it would not take much velocity to send a strip as described back across
a 15ft shop (way under 50 feet per second or 30 miles per hour) -- durn near
anyone could throw something like this WAY more that 15'.
So if it came off the saw at 60 miles per hour, this could easily happen.
You don't need gunshot velocity or anything even close. Just suicidal
Try this sometime -- get a 1/4" dowel 3' long and bounce it on a concrete
floor. It bounces quite nicely, and can be pretty fun to try to get a
Matthew (who is always fascinated by crap like this)
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