Read. It says set your set by hand. If you need 2" wavy for your
needs then do it. The taper is in the upper part as that is where
the drag/tug occurs. Close to the teeth there is more power in the
saw than drag. If you need more add more. If you are cutting a $50
board, then use what you want to do.
On 6/15/2016 10:07 AM, steve robinson wrote:
Not sure why I'm getting back in this, but no, it does
not say "set your set by hand". It says the manufacturer
of the saw performs the setting by hand (that particular
manufacturer does pretty much everything by hand).
They set to the middle ground. If you are sawing exotic and hard to get
wood, you don't want a .25" kerf unless you have to. Set it yourself to
the size you want for your specific job or use the generic set.
On 6/18/2016 2:24 PM, John McCoy wrote:
As I pointed out elsewhere in this thread, Lowes and Home
Depot have them (they're crap, but they're there).
There are several on-line vendors of quality saws who will
provide them sharped as a ripsaw.
You seem to be the one that isn't reading. See those words
"heavily taper ground". Those are the only handsaws without
set, and those are to all intents and purposes non-existant
(I doubt any have been made since before WW2).
Those are the saws that are used on Hardwoods. How many of you
use a handsaw on hardwood ? Most use it on pine or sometimes ply.
Fur and Pine are not hardwoods.
If you have a lower cost saw it is for construction. If you have an
expensive saw it is for hardwood or both.
On 6/9/2016 9:34 AM, John McCoy wrote:
On Thu, 9 Jun 2016 22:05:48 -0500, Martin Eastburn
Many Hardwoods are actually far more resinous and softer than some
Oak, Elm, Teak will not cut without set infact most hardwoods won't
unless your using timber that has a moisture content below 10%
In years gone by it was rare to see timber off the rack hitting those
levels as all timber was air dried
Most seasoned timbers came into the shop around 15 to 22%
Infact it was common practice to cut up your sections straighten
and square them off then leave them in the building you were working
on for a couple of months before you worked them .
The only exception was the old cabinet makers shops who would have a
fire going year round , but the sections they used were small in
comparison to general construction / joinery.
What? I think I agree with Larry, you're just making absurd
statements to troll the group.
Of course I use a handsaw on hardwoods. So, I'm guessing, does
everyone else in the group (you, perhaps, excepted). This is
a group for cabinetry after all, not carpentry.
Offhand I can't recall ever using a handsaw on ply.
On Fri, 10 Jun 2016 13:37:31 -0000 (UTC), John McCoy
He is arguing about a specific saw that was marketed by disston for
a very short period of time, suitable for one purpose fine
accurate cuts in thin stock, if he bothered to check on the disston
website , it also states that many tradesmen actually added set to the
This was one of the reasons why it got dropped , although a fantastic
product its market was limited as other saws were just as good but
serviced a larger section of he marketplace.
The manufacturing process for sawblades in the 1800s couldnt produce
the fine grade steel with suitable tensile strength , blades were
generally a lot thicker than they are today to take out the whip .
It's hard to tell, actually, what he's argueing about. He
started out by saying ripsaws have a different tooth shape
(true) and no set (false). Since then he's made a variety
of ludicrous statements, most of which suggest he hasn't
actually done any woodworking in decades, and doesn't really
remember what he did.
So you are an old school wood worker and are without a table saw,
bandsaw (sliding table naturally) or any power tools.
I use a saw to touch up and do small work. I don't work myself to
death sawing a lot of wood by hand. I use my mind not my back.
On 6/10/2016 8:37 AM, John McCoy wrote:
Well, there's certainly no evidence in this thread that
you use your mind.
Personally, I use the right tool for the job. I use a
handsaw for cutting tenons, because I'm in no hurry and
it's easier than setting up the tenoning jig on the table
saw. I use a handsaw to cut long boards to rough length,
because that makes them easier and safer to handle on
the table saw. I use a handsaw for other small stuff,
when it's easier or quicker than going to a power saw.
Whatever is the right tool for the job.
You appear to have a unique definition of "set". Since
your definition is different from everyone else's, your
comments are hard to understand.
Hacksaw blades have set. It's not alternate tooth set as
would be done on a crosscut or ripsaw for wood, but the
teeth are still set.
So are the teeth on a crosscut saw. As you say they are
triangles (viewed from the top), the trailing edge of the
triangle is full width of the blade.
On Monday, June 6, 2016 at 7:24:15 PM UTC-7, Martin Eastburn wrote:
The way to tell isn't to squint at the teeth; rather, make a cut and
look at the kerf. A ripsaw makes a flat-bottom kerf, because
the teeth are chisel-like with the edge perpendicular to the cut,
while crosscut teeth have alternate bevel (makes a 'W' bottom kerf).
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