Hand tools

With the advent of Harbor Fright, it seems like expectations in hand tool quality has gone into the toilet. Aside from the freebies (which are, now, no longer free), I think I've purchased a utility knife, some blades for it and some tools to repair a damaged car door (i.e., chunks of shaped metal).

Tonight, I was in need of a tap wrench (Al is just too damn soft to try to tap "by hand"). A friend suggested buying a T&D set from HF -- which had me struggling to contain my laughter (the taps and die don't appear to be properly hardened -- nor the threads "clean"!)

The idea of buying a cheap set just to salvage the T&D wrenches might make sense -- but, even their cheapest set is more expensive than buying "better" parts a la carte.

[As my friend loaned me a tap wrench, my immediate need has been satisfied]

This got me to thinking what other tools I *might* (not *will*!) consider buying from HF. I.e., the "possible buy" list is considerably shorter than the "wouldn't buy" list!

[We'd looked at a drywall lift and I cringed thinking *that* would be holding the sheetrock while I worked BENEATH it!]

Utility knife (disappointed that the blade was retractable; the quality of a non-retractable one would probably have been better!) was small expense and largely disposable. Blades weren't particularly sharp *nor* hard but, again, disposable. Auto body tools are little more than blocks of steel so kinda hard to go wrong, there.

OTOH, I wouldn't put much faith in their power tools -- at least, not as "investments" (note that I don't consider a YEAR to be an "investment"; most of my hand tools are as old or older than I!)

So, the question is, what tools to avoid, consider and criteria used in making those decisions? And criteria to use in "broad brush" dismissals of whole categories of tools?

[E.g., the drywall lift we considered as a "one time use" so didn't mind the "loss" if it broke. OTOH, I wasn't keen on it breaking while I was *under* it! Hence the reason to avoid it.]

Of course, no right or wrong answers, here. I've inherited a fair number of HF discards (jack stands, torque wrenches, etc.) but don't think of them as "cherished" tools...

Reply to
Don Y
Loading thread data ...

I have some of their sockets and open wrenches that aren't too bad. They're in an unsecured tool tube on the bike so if they're ripped off I haven't lost much.

A floor jack spit the lift pad at me the first time I used it. After replacing the rivet it's serviceable. I have an electric impact driver that works. I don't use it very often but for the price, around $50 iirc, it was worth it.

A set of number drills works okay for soft material. C-clamps are hard to screw up. A chain breaker did its job. A tubing flaring tool was utter crap.

Fortunately I can walk to HF during lunch hour and see the stuff first hand. It's too hit or miss otherwise.

Reply to
rbowman

I bought a small chipper shredder there and so far it works fine.

Reply to
Muggles

Shredder? Is this for paper?

Chipper? You're quite a gal. I don't know anyone who owns his own one of those.

Reply to
Micky

I avoid McHarborFreight.

mscdirect.com is my go-to (at work and home). They sell quality stuff at reasonable prices.

Reply to
Leroy Brown

Their combination wrenches are okay. As with socket wrenches. Last night I totally needed a 1/4 drive deep socket in 10 MM to change a thermostat on an engine. Ought have had a set from HF. Sigh. well, I did have one in 3/8 drive, ought have tried that one. Got the job done, that's what counts.

About 15 years ago, I did buy a set of Pittsburgh flare nut wrenches, which were very sloppy and rounded off the nuts.

Good luck with a cordless drill from about 15 years ago, still in use. OK results with impact screw driver that runs on 18 volt nicad packs. OK use of a 3/8 VSR drill that plugs in. Light loads only, I ground up one, drilling for lockset holes 2 1/8 hole saw.

Plug in impact 1/2 inch wrench is okay. One switch position quit, now it only does remove. No big worry, I can put lug nuts on by hand.

VOM seem to work okay, and also ammeter.

Flashlight with 3 D cells and 95 LED was also okay. Not super duper bright, but okay.

Flashlight with 3 D cells, and 15 LED was and is fun, switch goes from 1 to 5 to 15 LED. Very short range light, not for spotting racoons in trees.

Free tape measures, screw drivers, scissors, and flash lights actually good enough quality to use. I spray paint the screw driver handles so they don't look like everyone else's.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

We don;t have Harbor Freight where I live. We do have Costco, BJs Whollesale club, Ocean State Job Lot....

My rule of thumb is never buy any tool made of metal from a discounter. :) Low quality metal makes sockets, screwdrivers, pliers and power tools nearly useless. The money saved ends up being money wasted. But if you see a good deal on one of those rubber bottle openers...

Reply to
Mayayana

On 10/19/2015 11:45 PM, Don Y wrote: ...

...

The polished Pittsburgh wrench sets are good buy for any but the hardest of uses...I find them easily hard enough jaws don't spread without excessive force like using a cheater on one and they have a nice feel...and, you've not lost a fortune if they're carried to field on farm, say, and manage to lose one or two in the sand...

A professional mechanic in a clean shop may well elect SnapOn or MAC, surely...

Reply to
dpb

Even though this subject has been discussed as many times as there are sources for HF coupons, I'll jump in.

I just bought a 25 inch, 1/2 in. drive Breaker Bar (Item #67933) for $9.59 by using the 20% coupon on top of the sale price of $11.99.

I then went home and replaced the rotors and pads on my Ody. That breaker bar paid for itself multiple times by busting loose the caliper bracket bolts with next to no effort. My old method was a piece of pipe over the ratchet handle which worked fine, but having a dedicated breaker bar, for less than $10 is a sweet deal. Less wear and tear on the ratchet handle too.

If I need to, I could slip the pipe over the breaker bar and gain another 2 feet. If I ever need to do that, it better be one strong bolt!

Reply to
DerbyDad03

That doesn't mean they are of good quality.

I've been buying and using hand/pwr tools for decades. Despite their rep, MAC and Snap-On make very few of their own tools. Last time I looked, Snap-On's measuring tapes were Lufkin and the Chinese-made plunger oil can I bought from Snap-On broke during the first stroke on the plunger.

I've got a buddy bringing me a HF heat gun. I've had a few tools from HF. I won't buy anything from them if it requires good steel, like HSS drill bits.

nb

Reply to
notbob

I have a set of open/box wrenches from KMart from ~40 years back that I use similarly (disposable/"losable"). Ditto for sockets. My better tools stay in the house.

Hmmmm... I will have to note that. The guy who gave me the jack stands also gave me a (tiny) floor jack (not a bottle jack). As with most HF things, I'm not keen on putting my body *under* something that it must support!

A neighbor gifted a hammer drill which has paid for itself (at $0) many many times over! I think I've probably drilled more holes in cement/concrete than anyone I know! (literally more than 100 at ~1" through footers, into the slab, block walls, etc.)

I inherited a C clamp that had a lot of slop in the screw -- so, over the width of the throat, you could end up with the screw NOT lining up with its opposing member!

It looks like you're using the same sort of criteria that I've adopted: things with no or few/coarse moving parts. Or, low usage/disposable.

Reply to
Don Y

That's been the case for a VERY long time. I worked at a large hand tool manufacturer ~30 years ago "testing" our tools against competitors. So, you got to see lots of tools side by side (and under the microscope) to realize there weren't as many "manufacturers" as their were "name brands". I'm sure that's only worse, nowadays.

[Reminds me of shopping in the garment district as a kid -- buying "name brand", "high end" fashions. When you'd inquire as to the label, they'd calmly ask you which one you'd LIKE it to be (and open a little case of assorted lables that they would gladly sew in for you)]

That was my thinking re: the T&D set. Even a casual inspection suggested it was of poor quality (e.g., the threads weren't even cut clean!).

OTOH, when I've had to drill into the steel lintels here (e.g., to hang window blinds), I have no qualms about buying a cheap bit and sharpening it

*repeatedly* to get the required holes in place.

Heat gun I would be leary of the wire gauge in the cord and internals esp given that most tend to be high wattage (save a few pennies on a strand or two of copper wire...)

Reply to
Don Y

I've used a pipe over a 1/2" breaker bar, but a ratchet...WTF! You have no idea of the pressure you're exerting on the gear, pawl, and stud of that ratchet! You should have your amateur mechanics license taken away!

Reply to
bob_villa

I see a savings of over $70 on buying a $90 Master Appliance heat gun. For that big o' savings, I'll chance it. ;)

nb

Reply to
notbob

Nor did I care. If it broke (which it never did) I simply would have replaced it. I've used the pipe of fixed head and flexible head ratchets, the same handles I've been using for years. Never broke a single one.

I'm working totally unlicensed. Please don't report me to RHP. (Ratchet Handle Police)

Reply to
DerbyDad03

We have one, too. Sadly, my husband's shoulder isn't up to the task of feeding in the brush anymore. I'd like to sell it, but he's paranoid (probably rightly so) about craigslist and similar venues.

Cindy Hamilton

Reply to
Cindy Hamilton

Same here. I bought a few things from them years ago, and I was not pleased with anything. Most of the stuff went in the garbage in less than a year. I only do one thing when I see a HF store. I keep driving!

Reply to
RealPerson

No problem...keeps the line down for the rest of us.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

When freebies were truly free, I would often stop in and pick up a spare (disposable) flashlight or (disposable) taperule or (disposable) VOM.

I've frequently taken advantage of the screwdrivers, taperules and scissors to supply various nonprofits with which I've been affiliated.

Now that "free with any purchase", there is less incentive to do so (as there's very little that HF sells that I tend to be interested in)

Reply to
Don Y

Use a disposable (i.e., not one that you want to KEEP) email account for selling on CL. Don't bring them to your house (may not be possible depending on the item) but, instead, arrange to meet somewhere else, "public"). Insist on cash. Have a friend with you during the transaction.

Don't respond to "is it still available" or "call me" emails from potential buyers. Instead, list it with the phrase "I will remove this post when the article is no longer available". (often the "is it available" messages are just attempts by folks to capture YOUR email address; dispose of the email account that you used once the sale is complete)

You might also find a local group that can benefit from having it (after verifying that they won't simply turn your donation into cash with a quick sale). E.g., here, there are groups of volunteers who routinely clean and maintain the various trails around town -- on their own dime.

Reply to
Don Y

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.