Compressor mod

[B a r r y]

Before we go on, let me acknowledge that this will NOT take the place of a good 240 volt, 60+ gallon, oil clubbed compressor! That's not the intent here.

I have a PC 2 HP 6 gallon pancake unit that came with my brad / finish nailer kit. It's a handy tool for nailing, blow guns, and other small draw devices, plus it's very portable.

Looking for a cheap alternative to buying a portable mid-sized compressor to power a touch up gun, I had an idea. I added a brass tee fitting between the pressure switch and regulator. To the tee, I connected an extra quick connect, so that I can connect my 11 gallon air tank. For regular nailing, I can leave the extra tank disconnected.

It works GREAT! I use a small regulator set to 40-50 psi at the gun, set the compressor regulator to 75-80 PSI, and I can pretty much spray all I want without waiting for the compressor to catch up! The initial charge does take quite a bit longer than without the extra tank, and I know I'm adding extra wear to the machine, but it's a lot cheaper than a decent 20-25 gallon portable. Inserting the extra capacity between the switch and first regulator makes the system behave quite differently than if the tank were after the first regulator.

Now I can use the big compressor for regular spraying, the PC, in two versions, for portable applications, or even the 11 gallon tank alone for nailing.

Since I already had the spare tank, the total cost of the mod was under $10.

Barry

[Ed Clarke]

I have a monstrous IR T-30 compressor; was supposed to be 5HP, but the 5HP filter won't come close to fitting - it needs a ten inch diameter filter. The motor I put on it to replace the 5HP 3ph motor is a 5HP TEFC 220/25amp single phase unit. I suspect 15HP would be closer to was original.

Anyway, due to my own lazyness, I added an automatic drain to the tank. These units are available at Grainger or MSC, and will open a 1/4 inch valve for 2-10 seconds every hour. The output on mine goes to a small hose barb with 25 feet of 1/4 inch tubing on it. It ends up outside. Now I never have to worry about "Did I drain the tank?"...

A final piece of maintenance - I checked the safety valves (overpressure valves) and found one solidly stuck closed. Grainger had several different replacement units for about $10. Cheap at ten times the price! A stuck-on compressor with a frozen safety valve could blow your house to small pieces if you have a large tank. Mine is eighty gallons and the people in sci.physics claim the energy storage at 200 psi is about the same as a pound of TNT.

[Frank Ketchum]

Just a word of warning, I have the same compressor and I like it also. However, the unit is not meant to exceed a 50% duty cycle (the motor should not be running more than 50% of the time while in use). If the larger draw air tools are causing the motor to exceed the 50% rating, then the life of the motor will be greatly reduced.

Frank

[B a r r y]

Agreed. It's not. Extended run times would probably also raise the air temp and moisture content considerably.

I like to charge any compressor at the very beginning of a spray session to allow the air to cool, and moisture to settle out. This is the first thing I do, before I even take out the gun, prepare the finish, or prepare the work area.

It takes 10-12 minutes for the initial charge on this thing, and things do not get overly hot. I could probably spray a typical vanity, end table, or maybe a nightstand, without the compressor kicking in until I'm cleaning the gun. In reality, It might run 5-10 minutes of 30-45 minutes of work time, exclusive of the initial charge.

Remember, I have a larger unit, this is for quickie touch up gun, or extended Critter use, with portability in mind. I'm not looking to power a conversion gun and spray wall units or kitchens with it.

If the thing eventually toasts, I'll replace it with a 20-28 gallon portable.

Barry