bearings on the delta 14 inch bandsaw

[tiredofspam]

My bearings were frozen up again.

Even after cleaning both did not move well.

I wound up blowing them out, I can't get the dust seal off. These are not like some bearings that allow the dust seal to be removed. I dumped them both in mineral spirits and they freed up, until I blew them out. Then they were like gum again.

So I sprayed them with WD40 and am hoping for the best.

I guess I need to heat the lower one to get it off the shaft. Can someone confirm that heating the bearing with a torch will do that. Or is there another way?

[Josepi]

WD40?

Corrosive as hell and will rust your bearings right out in a few months if they last that long without proper lubrication.

Even after cleaning both did not move well.

I wound up blowing them out, I can't get the dust seal off. These are not like some bearings that allow the dust seal to be removed. I dumped them both in mineral spirits and they freed up, until I blew them out. Then they were like gum again.

So I sprayed them with WD40 and am hoping for the best.

I guess I need to heat the lower one to get it off the shaft. Can someone confirm that heating the bearing with a torch will do that. Or is there another way?

[-MIKE-]

What is it with you and mythical corrosion?

[Michael Kenefick]

[DanG]

I am afraid that the bearings on the Delta bandsaw are permanently sealed bearings. If they have reached the point that they stopped, they are way overdue. In my opinion, you are wasting your time trying to lube them. WD 40 would certainly NOT be my choice.

You can get the bearings at any bearing house and probably most auto parts stores. They shouldn't cost more than $3 each.

[Josepi]

I have no idea. The MSDS sheets do not have to list reactions with non-human parts.

Different parts of the world use different formulae. Some of the formula is a secret. Look at the front of the can for the corrosive symbol

on the can sold in Canada, requiring full disclosure on the can. You may notice different warnings required on the cans and they have changed label wording over the years. For many years no lubrication claims were made on the Canadian product. I have no idea what it claims now. The USA can always seemed to claim lubrication but doesn't show corrosion warnings.

I use it very seldom anymore unless a penetrating oil or an old masking tape remover is required. It tends to dry out any real lubricant in moving parts and makes the lubrication worse after a few months.

[Lobby Dosser]

40

[Lew Hodgett]

----------------------------------- You almost always "brinell" ball bearings when you remove them, thus they are considered a "throw away" item.

You should always replace them on a re-build.

Using a torch to remove bearings is not high on my hit parade, much rather use a 1,500 watt heat gun.

It's a lot safer.

Lew

[GROVER]

The ball bearings are lubricated at the factory and are not conducive to home re lubing. The WD 40 will probably do more harm than good by disolving the original grease lube. They are a relatively inexpensive part if purchased from a bearing vendor rather than from the machine manufacturer. Replacement is the best option.

Joe G

[tiredofspam]

I had tried the other day injecting my sons racing lube into the bearings. Since they were not moving. Hence the frozen again.

The WD is working for today. I will be picking up a new set of bearings. Apparently I do not have to heat the bearing to get it off the shaft. Apparently is is a split shaft so the screw on the end that holds the adjuster, also keeps the sleeve in place.

I'll probably go for more serviceable bearings. My son speed skates on inline skates, and we have a whole bearing service system that includes shaker box to clean, and ultrasonic cleaners. As well as some very high quality lubes.

[whit3rd]

The sawdust environment is NOT kind to 'more serviceable' bearings. I wouldn't bother with any system meant for frequent maintenance, just get more sealed bearings with the manufacturer's lifetime grease. It'll work for you. "High quality" grease is only a few dollars a kilo, trust the manufacturers' selection.

[Larry W]

Obviously you have been working with oak on your jointer.

[dpb]

Utter nonsense.

It's essentially a kerosene-weight hydrocarbon w/ a few other lighter fractions added.

Whatever its value as a lubricant (which isn't much except as a temporary wetting agent for moving parts), it is definitely not a corrosion-instigator.

That said, the idea of using it in sealed bearings is a futile one--if they're dried and failing, they're dried out and failed and any such "fix" is purely temporary at best.

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[tiredofspam]

[Bob AZ]

tiredofspam

From your message it is evident that the bearings are shot already. And the manufacturer probably did not spend much money on bearings in the first place. You will need either a press or puller to remove the bearings. Stay away from roller skate bearings. And no torch please. Just the puller and press as necessary.

Call the folks at "vxb.com" or go to their site and buy the expensive ones. If you are not up on bearings ask their advice.

To the WD40 users. 50 years ago WD40 was corrosive and has not improved yet. Just leave a shiny chrome thing in it overnight and look at it in the morning.

Yesterday I could have used WD40 to clean up the brake caliper slides on my Chrysler but would have had to clean off the WD40 with brake cleaner to rid the calipers of the WD40. Then lube as directed by the service manual.

Bob AZ

[-MIKE-]

I just did. I'll report what I find tomorrow.

[John Grossbohlin]

RE the bearings, I wouldn't bother trying to revive them as a permanent fix. As a temporary fix until new bearing can be installed, yes... but not permanent.

RE WD-40, I've used it for years to prevent corrosion, as a cleaner, and to dry out electricals... Never counted on it as a lubricant per se. It doesn't seem to have anything corrosive in it if

is accurate.

WD-40's main ingredients, according to U.S. Material Safety Data Sheet information, are:

50%: Stoddard solvent (i.e., mineral spirits - primarily hexane, somewhat similar to kerosene) 25%: Liquefied petroleum gas (presumably as a propellant; carbon dioxide is now used instead to reduce WD-40's considerable flammability) 15+%: Mineral oil (light lubricating oil) 10-%: Inert ingredients

The German version of the mandatory EU safety sheet lists the following safety-relevant ingredients:

60-80%: Heavy Naphtha (petroleum product), hydrogen treated 1-5%: Carbon dioxide

[J. Clarke]

And if they advise a 608 bearing then what?

[-MIKE-]

As I suspected, the chrome parts I soaked overnight came out clean and shiny. Maybe I'll leave them in a week.. or a month... or maybe a year, but I'm fairly certain the results will be identical.

Note to self: WD40 makes a great chrome cleaner.

[dpb]

Bob AZ wrote: ...

...

Utter nonsense, again.

50 years ago it was Stoddard solvent (think kerosene-like hydrocarbon) and its latest MSDS is only a slight difference--I looked it up just within the last couple months on another thread and posted both the MSDS and the links to the universal chemical code data sheets.

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