Apoligies if this is not the correct place to ask this.
My baxi boiler no longer appears to have a boiler light lit. The heating is
not coming on. It is a Baxi Solo 2 50 PF. I don't have the instructions
for this unit, and to be honest don't really know much at all about boilers.
Could someone please tell me how I should go about trying to light the
boiler light? All I can see is a knob that starts at 0, *, 1, 2, 3, 4,5 ,6.
I have no idea what this does or if it is important.
Thanks for any advice (and please bare in mind I have no practical knowledge
on these things).
Try the baxi site - this is the list for the literature page, it
doesn't have a baxi solo 2 but does have a solo3 which is may be
pretty similar when it comes to lighting.
| Apoligies if this is not the correct place to ask this.
| My baxi boiler no longer appears to have a boiler light lit. The heating is
| not coming on. It is a Baxi Solo 2 50 PF. I don't have the instructions
| for this unit, and to be honest don't really know much at all about boilers.
| Could someone please tell me how I should go about trying to light the
| boiler light? All I can see is a knob that starts at 0, *, 1, 2, 3, 4,5 ,6.
| I have no idea what this does or if it is important.
| Thanks for any advice (and please bare in mind I have no practical knowledge
| on these things).
Pick out the literature for the Solo 3 PFL from the menu on the left of the
screen, then use your right
mouse button to click over the download link and select the "Save Target As"
option in the dialog window
that appears. It should help you find out how to use the boiler.
Not sure what you are referring to as the "boiler light". This is a fan
assisted boiler with electronic ignition, and has no permanently-on pilot
Are you sure that the boiler is receiving a demand signal from your
programmer and room and/or cylinder stats? Is the boiler's own thermostat
turned up to a suitable position?
Has the boiler ever overheated and tripped out on its over-heat thermostat?
If so, it may need resetting by pressing the red button. [On my earlier
model, this is accessed by pulling off the removeable cover at the bottom
front of the casing. The button is then on the left hand side].
Incidentally, you should find some fault-finding hints on the inside of this
cover once you have removed it.
working from the connector down through the neons :
1 - lockout
2 - power to pcb
3 - fan on
4 - demand for heat (pilot and spark)
5 - main valve on
this will tell you the status of the boiler
Ignition should be automatic when there is a demand for heat
When there is power to the pcb, there are no neons illuminated. Switched
live brings the second neon on, assuming that there is a demand for
heat, the third neon comes on with the fan. When the pressure switch
moves into the normally open position, the 4th neon comes on, indicating
that the pilot and spark are energised. When the board senses the pilot
flame and brings on the main valve, the 5th neon is illuminated. If the
boiler goes into lockout (as I said earlier) neons 1 and 2 are
When the boiler is working (i.e. gas on), neons 2, 3, 4 & 5 are all on.
I assume that Baxi have added more diagnostics to later models. My 1992
vintage Solo WM 70/4 PF [GC No. 41 077 55] definitely has only 3 lamps -
described in the installation manual as "Indicator Lights" on the control
box. They look like LEDs to me - but they could be something different.
These come on in sequence as the boiler goes through its startup cycle. All
3 are lit when it is running. None are lit when it cuts out on its normal
stat or when switched live is turned off by the programmer or room stat.
There are no lights for power or lockout.
The current range appears to be Solo 3 - which presumably have the
additional lights. The OP appears to have a Solo 2 - which is intermediate
in age between my Solo (1) and the current Solo 3. Maybe the Solo 2 only has
3 lights like the original Solo?
I never said I had anything until just!
The OP (with the problem) said he had a Solo 2. Someone else with a Solo 2
said his had only 3 lights. You said a Solo 2 has the same board as a Solo 3
which has 5 lights - implying that a Solo 2 will also have 5 lights.
I (with my experience of the Mk 1 only) was trying to offer a possible
explanation for the differing views as to what a Solo 2 actually has.
In the meantime, the OP's boiler appears to have started working again - all
by itself - so we shall probably never know exactly what he's got!
If it goes into lockout, then there are two neons illuminated -the
lockout and power (switched live) neon. It's so long since I actually
did one myself, I can't remember if it goes into lockout if the spark
fails to light the pilot. I'll look on Monday. This isn't to say we
don't repair a lot of them, it just means I'm getting less hands-on.
Thanks for the replies. The boiler is now working.
A few occasions now it has not come on for the heating. The water still
comes on. I didn't know much about the boiler before so I was confused
about the pilot light.
When I tried the heating no lights came on at all. I have tried leaving
more space around the boiler to see if perhaps it is overheating. I guess I
will only know that if it happens again.
Just spotted this thread:- I have one of these boilers, and it's getting a
bit long in the tooth now, but the only problem I've ever had with it is the
fan on the powered flue. It is fairly exposed to dust and especially heat,
being sat over the combustion space, blowing hot air out the flue.
The induction (brushless) mains motor powering the fan gets it's bearings
clogged over time with dust, so the fan struggles and then fails to spin up.
When this happens the burner will not light, as there is a sensor to ensure
sufficient flow of air before allowing ignition.
The cure is very simple: take off the cover (2 crosshead screws), and gently
clean the motor bearings with a brush, give them a good squirt with WD40 to
free them up and off you go. I have had to replace the fan and motor
assembly once when it was really burnt out but they cost about 120 pounds,
so it's worth trying the simple stuff first. If you get adventurous it's
easy to remove the assembly yourself for cleaning/replacement, but obviously
you do that at your own risk.
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