I just purchased a Steel City 14" bandsaw and am shopping for a
fence. The KREG looks good but kind of costly. Does anybody have any
experience and/or suggestions?
I'm never lost, someone is always telling me where to go...
First, what are your cutting needs and how frequently would you need
to change settings?
(I'm assuming that you did not get any fence at all with your saw.) A
very simple method- and cheap if you already have them- is to use two
clamps to hold a straight piece of wood on the table. A thin or
narrow piece will work for most ripping situations and if you need a
taller support you can fabricate an "L" shaped frame and use its tall
side as the fence.
If quickness in set-ups is not necessary because you are doing a lot
of repetitve cuts than you would not need to spend additional money on
a fence and buy lumber instead.
That's the one. Had a fence for my former saw and struggling with it was
one of the reasons why I bought Duginskie. Tried the pin and never bothered
with that dumbass fence again. The best fences now have a pad which gives
you the same as a pin for resawing, which says a lot.
In the matter of clamping, I like those Vise-grip types for jigs on iron
In spite of the other posts that are negative towards the Kreg fence, I have
one and use it all the time. As far as blade drift is concerned, it is
something you can minimize or eliminate if you know how to adjust your saw.
The after market Iturra tension spring and aligning the wheels on my 14" Jet
with the 6" riser block made the drift issue become a minor issue.
I cut my tenons on the bandsaw using the fence instead of Duginskie's shims.
I have the resaw attachment for the fence and seldom use it. I can resaw
veneer thicknesses as thin as 1/64" using the fence.
I use the BC Saw's 3tpi skip tooth blade like Michael Fortune recommends. I
have the expensive low tension exotic allow blades that are popular that are
absolute junk in my shop.
I use it to tighten a loose mortise and tenon joint. If I want a finish
veneer, I like 1/8" thicknesses. My point is that I have the fence and
wouldn't want to do without it.
A friend used my saw recently and said it was the best adjusted saw he has
used, and I credit Mark Dugenske and Michael Fortune.
I have never been really impressed with the Kreg fence although it is
superior to what comes with many saws so it would be an improvement. That
said however, Laguna makes an even more expensive but still affordable fence
that "may" work on other saws. It has a lot of built in features such as
repeatable precise incremental distance adjustments, adjustments for drift,
and or fence height.
I am not saying that this would be the best choice for you but am mentioning
it for consideration.
I think the Kreg is a great system. I have been using it on my 14" bandsaw
for over 12 months now. Very adjustable for blade drift and can produce some
excellent and consistent cut results.
Review > http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/reviews/kregbandsawfence.htm
I have an Osborne fence. Real similar to the Kreg. Works well, but as
others have said, a bandsaw drifts due to several reasons. If the saw
is well tuned and a decent blade is used the drift is consistent and you
adjust the fence drift angle to compensate. I find that I normally only
have to adjust the drift if I change blades. I use the fence a lot and
it is quicker than a piece of wood and two clamps that you have to
adjust for the drift each time you use it.
Take your time cutting, forcing a cut can cause the blade to follow the
grain, no matter how well setup everything is.
I got a Delta 14" BS with a fence that incorporates a metal rod that
can be fastened to the fence and placed alongside the blade.
I've yet to o anything much with the saw and won't be able to get back
to it for months.
I was intrigued by the mention of a "pin" but have no point of
reference and wonder if those who advocate for its use might point to
a site or two that describes its use,
Also, any insights in "tuning" the Delta fence and compensating for
any drift I might experience.
I have heard the addvice to replace the tension spring.
It's just a pointy or rounded faced fence, with the fulcrum lined up
with the cutting edge. You zip a reference line down the board and cut
to it by eye. It works much better than many would guess.
Here's a fancy example:
Kreg sells a curved addition to their fence:
For years, my resaw guide was a piece of 4x4, cleanly cut at 90 degrees,
clamped to the table. Adjustments are doen with taps, like a wooden
plane. The point was aligned so the end and one side of the 4x4 fanned
out @ 45 degrees from the blade.
My saw is well tuned, so the work stays relatively parallel to the front
of the table regardless of my choice of a point or my Kreg fence.
I would say the only down side I've found on the KREG fence system, and it
may only be aesthetics, is the darn thing is short an inch or two and
doesn't stretch all the way to the other side of my 14" Delta bandsaw
table. Of course they do sell a longer fence separate for $40 that
stretches all the way across, but you can't buy the fence system with the
longer fence.. Haven't really found a negative, operationally, as a result
of the short fence, but from an aesthetics point of view it looks like its
the wrong sized fence for the saw or that KREG was just too cheap to give
you the full length...
I have the Jet 14" w/ riser and the Kreg.
Last night I used my digital caliper to adjust the scale and was able to cut
within .015" just setting the fence by eye using the included scale.
I'm not sure if .015 is considered good or not.. but for me on a BS, it's
very good. Using the micro adjuster I could probably dial it into .010 or
so. Again, not sure how good a BS can be tuned, but it seems .010 is about
as good as I can get my saw to cut across the length of a board.
Being able to set the fence, power up , and cut to .015 is worth the price.
Build your own. I bought two pieces of "T" track and two toggle clamps
from Rockler. Using a piece of oak on each side, they bolted right up to
the saw table. I use a 2"x2" piece of angle iron as the fence. Cost was
less than $20. On the first attempt, I blocked off the miter track, but
re-drilled the holes and now everything fits fine. See pictures on the
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