Band saw Recomendations? And Goodbye to the Rikon

Leon · 2006-02-14T23:32:47+00:00

Wellllll I bought the Rikon 18" bands saw sight unseen in late November. It changed design and model numbers before I received it 2 months later on January 31. Two weeks later I returned it Woodcraft for a full credit. Kudos' to Woodcraft for their return policy and smiling when giving me the credit. I usually hate to do something like this but when I purchased the saw the salesmen stated that they sell the units faster than they can get them , so none were actually on the sales floor. I asked, what if I am not satisfied with the saw. Bring it back for credit was the reply. Regretfully I took them up on the offer.The band saw wad a true bargain but unfortunally not what I was looking for.For what ever reason I had an issue with Timberwolf blades that was not resolved. While I suspect that perhaps I got a bad batch of blades, I cannot totally discount the band saw from the problem. While running a 1/4" blade on the saw and was observing the problematic blade wobble as it moved forward and backward on each revolution I happened to peek inside the upper door and witnessed the 18" wheel wobbling back and forth. Extra tension eliminates the wobble but that required too much tension for a 1/4" blade. As it turns out I am also not a big fan of roller bearings guides especially on the sides. They get very noisy and spin a lot from build up even though they are not touching the blade and no wood is being cut.That brings me to taking a harder look at the Laguna line of saws. I am not so much interested in width of cut as resaw capabilities. One of the smaller 14" Laguna's still has 12" resaw capacity and a 2 hp Baldor motor. The guide system uses 10 ceramic contact points and can be touching the blade all of the time if desired. Unlike the 18" Rikon, 18" Delta and perhaps a majority of Chinese built saws, the Laguna top wheel cannot be moved in and out when you gently pull back and forth at the 9 and 6 o'clock positions with a 1/4" blade installed and...

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Leuf 20 years ago

Well I finally made my decision the other day. I guess like you I wasn't looking in the same price bracket as Leon. I had it narrowed down to the 14" Craftsman, Delta 28-206, Jet (the 1 hp one, too lazy to dig up the mile long model number) and the Grizzly G0555.

I didn't want to go with roller bearings, mostly I'm going to use small blades. I couldn't find much not to like about the Craftsman (basically same as the Rikon but 2" more resaw) but when I emailed Sears to ask about putting regular guide blocks on it they said they couldn't answer and gave me the manufacturer's email address. I figure if that is the level of support I'm going to get from them, no thanks.

With the current amazon pricing and jet rebates both of those ended up (with shipping) at $550, the griz by the time I added guide block holders to it was $520. So pretty much a wash. I eliminated the griz because of the smaller table and that the motor is face mounted to the side of the saw. I figure if I have to replace the motor later on it's going to be easier with it in the stand. They were excellent about getting back to my questions though. The Jet didn't have a quick release, which wasn't a deal breaker for me but it just seemed like it was the same saw with prettier paint, and having to deal with a rebate.

So the Delta is on its way, and I get to squirm for a while and pray for good weather when it shows up. Originally they estimated the

23rd, now it says the 27th.

-Leuf

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Leon 20 years ago

Hi Mark,

I think the Laguna and MiniMax are in an upper league when compared to the Rikon. The Rikon is a good saw for the money but like you I want a saw that does what it is suppose to do but with some grace.. I see the Mini has Euro guides. I really don't care for the side guide roller bearings that the less expensive saws have. Laguna now uses the ceramic guides, how do you like the Euro style? Right now the guides seem to be the glaring difference between the Mini and the Laguna. While the Mini has a bit more weight, hp, etc. I think both saws are long past adequate. The Mini certainly has the advantage of being some what local for me. I want to resaw and cut veneer but will also being using it for every thing else that you would do with a BS. Quick blade changes, if that is possible, is a major factor for me also. I sold my old BS immediately after getting the Rikon and now there is an empty space in my garage. :~!)

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Enoch Root 20 years ago

I've been trying to look at the trunnions on all the bandsaws... not much luck. In fact, in the manual assembly directions, they sometimes aren't even pictured... or just the base.

That's more than I want to pay at the moment... but I'll keep looking in the local lists for an old old bandsaw--if something really solid shows up for the right price I don't care if I need to do a little renovating.

er

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Enoch Root 20 years ago

You're trying to make my choice harder, fess up!

er

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Leuf 20 years ago

Nah, the Griz, Delta and Jet are pretty much the same saw with slightly different stuff bolted to it. It's the illusion of choice that makes it difficult.

I know you were asking about trunions, I did learn in comparing the G0580 and G0555 that the 555 has larger trunions, but how it compares to the others I don't know.

-Leuf

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Andrew Barss 20 years ago

Leon wrote: :>

:> I'm just curious what's the logic on making your own veneer? Between :> the cost of the saw and blades I'm not seeing a lot economic reasons.

: Veneer is just a part of the equation and the economic reasons do not enter : into the factor. Probably 75% of my woodworking is for income and as I get : nearer to retirement I want to go to smaller projects. Some veneers are : tuff to find and are expensive, especially in the exotics. Additionally I : want more control over the thickness. I would rather deal with 1/8" thick : than 1/16" or thinner stock.

And commercial veneer is way thinner than 1/16th -- a lot are now 1/100th of an inch thick, most premium stuff comes in at 1/42nd.

That's really thin -- if you make your own, you have much more ability to sand/scrape/plane it.

And another reason for resawing -- sometimes you find a really gorgeous board, say of fiddleback maple, striped ebony, etc. And you want it to go as far as possible. Use it as solid stock, you get maybe a small bo. Slice it, and you can have (the surface of) a tabletop.

-- Andy Barss

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John Eppley 20 years ago

I will second that advice. I posted a question to this newsgroup several weeks ago concerning the viability of veneering only one side of a substrate. I had a great piece of maple that I wanted to "stretch". Since I had never tried veneering I wanted as much advice as I could find.

I had lousy results with contact cement. I had great results with standard woodworkers glue. I had several metal "angle" sections that provided great clamping. Overall, my project was a great success. Resawing was easier that I anticipated and since I have a Performax sander I was able to reach uniformed thickness quite easily.

Veneering will be used in many future projects.

John

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