Just a quick question. I've a pair of base cabinets that I'm building a countertop for. The countertop is around 5/8" thick wood. What's the normal procedure for attaching the counter top to the cabinet?
The cabinets will likely get moved around a few times, so I'd need something that can withstand that.
Puckdropper
Do the cabinets have rails across the top?
Robatoy wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@f6g2000yqa.googlegroups.com:
Puckdropper
Shims and screws through the rails.
Any way which will allow a little movement, including but not limited to:
Screws in slotted brackets Screws in bendy brackets Screws with washers under the heads through oversized holes Wooden blocks which hook into a slot in the cabinet Silicone sealant (not sure I would recommend that one but have seen it done)
You actually only need to allow movement on one edge so you can fix the other edge down hard it f you wish.
Tim W
The "normal procedure" is screws, up through stretchers fastened between the end panels for just that purpose. >
With that thin of a counter top to screw into you, and in addition to strategically places screws as above, you will probably want to consider using multiple brackets attached to the interior sides of the case work if you can.
Since you're installing a 5/8" top instead of a more conventional
3/4" thickness be careful to select a screw length which will not pierce your top. It's the type of error you make one time only.Joe G
Swingman wrote in news:Pradnegjoqpp6BrRnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:
I was wondering if I needed to run something across to add a bit more strength. I've got the space underneath for a couple brackets.
Thanks to everyone for the responses!
Puckdropper
Pretty much the same thing Rob posted, which is "normal procedure" used to attach counter tops/substrate to base cabinets (they also add some often desirable rigidity to the casework if there is no substrate needed under the counter top material):
("stretchers" may just be a regional thing ...)
And when you're on your back inside a cabinet and you ask your helper to hand you a 1-1/4" screw....check it. If he hands you a 1-1/2" screw, you could have a problem.... or so I'm told. A pan head with the built-in washer is the way to go, imho.
Agreed. It's worth it to have these around, simply because they won't countersink themselves. You know without a doubt that a 1-1/4" pan head will only go that far into the material. With a bugle head, you slip and go too far... oops, there's the tip coming through the top of the counter.
---------------------------------- Let me ask the stupid question.
Why not make some 2"x2"x1/2" plywood blocks, then epoxy them to the top forming 2"x2"x1" thick pads at each fastener penetration?
Seems simple enough.
Lew
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:4c881b0c$0$9872 $ snipped-for-privacy@news.astraweb.com:
I may yet wind up doing something similar, as it'll give me a little extra stability. (5/8" is a bit thin, but this was a scrap box clearing project.) Glue* a couple cross braces across the width, screw to that, and call it done. Sounds good to me.
*I've a bunch of Titebond II and absolutely no epoxy.Puckdropper
----------------------- If your top likes T/BII, you are good to go.
Lew
And, as a last resort
That depends on what material you are screwing it into and what tool you're using to drive it. If I don't pay attention to what I'm doing my impact driver will happily sink a McFeelys #8 washer head screw a quarter inch deep in poplar.
Did you do a free bit of inlay to cover up your screwup, Toy?
-- Happiness comes of the capacity to feel deeply, to enjoy simply, to think freely, to risk life, to be needed. -- Storm Jameson
A bit of overkill perhaps but attaching the countertop should be a cinch.
Impressive corner joint on that plywood.
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