Same here. Use it for some things (face frames mostly), like it alot.
"It just works". Long as you keep things cut square and clamped well
while putting the screws in, there's nothing to go wrong.
I've been meaning to purchase one of these jigs/tools and this thread
pushed me over the edge - not that it takes all that much<g>
Did some checking and found the best price for the K2000 PP at
www.coastaltool.com $132.50 which includes the $22.50 value screw
sampler pack as a bonus. Seemed that overall their prices for all of
the Kreg line were quite reasonable and they don't gouge on shipping. I
ordered some other items which ran the total to over $215 and the UPS
ground charge was still only $7.50.
You may be able to permanently secure the jig to a workbench or work
surface in your shop, a friend with a large shop and 3 workbenches did do
this but I have clamped the jig to a perpendicular shelf support where it
takes up no work surface at all. Haven't had to move it so far.
I have dedicated an plug-in drill for this use so I don't have to think
about batteries and when they were last charged.
Best tip: go to the Kreg site and print the information on screws, screw
and drill depths. Very helpful. It used to be buried, but now there's a link
from the home page.
Make sure you're using a fast drill. 2000RPM at least. That pretty
much rules out cordless drills. Keep the bit sharp. I have a few so I
can send two at a time back to Kreg to be sharpened. ($4 for the first
bit, $2 each additional.)
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Steve has provided two good tips here. I got good results with a
3000RPM corded drill - and get even better results with a faster
(inexpensive) air-powered drill from HF.
I also have two pair of bits - it does help to keep 'em sharp!
Clamp the pieces down to the table with the majority of the clamp
surface on the piece being connected too. This way the faces stay even
and the piece being screwed down can synch down as you drill.
The Kreg and other benchtop type systems drill at 12-15 degrees and
that can cause the piece being screwed to want to climb up a little
during screwing (I do the same thing).
The Castle or other machine router/drill combo types make 6 degree
pockets but even then the joint wants to climb if you don't clamp.
Final tip is for stronger joints you can use longer screws if the
material will accomodate. I use normal split tip type wood screws for
this vs pockets screws without any perceptable problems.
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