ALTERNATIBELY, Drill lots of holes to find your studs in a straight
line even with where the rail will go.
Cover all of those holes up with a 1x4 piece of wood to match the hand
rail, anchoring it to the studs you found. Mount your hand rail to the
board you just used to cover the holes.
It will work, if one places a couple 500 watt flood lights (work lights)
on one side. I've had the city engineer look at my walls for plumbing
issues, using the same thermal imager now carried by most fire & police
The city here carries an insurance policy on lateral sewer drain repairs
which is charged in property taxes and thermal imaging is a very
important means of assessing damage.
Better plumbing companies are now using thermal imaging to trace out
hidden and below grade lines by simply running hot/cold water. But of
course, there are always divining (dowsing) rods an sech! :-)
Funny thing. That idea occurred to me today while I was thinking about
something else. Delays really do increase the efficiency of my work
sometimes. I am seriously considering using this method.
Swingman suggested a 1/16" bit to find the studs. But I'm worried that
I may not have a sensitive enough "feel" for when I've hit a stud with
such a small bit and through thick plaster and wood lath. But a
decorative board to cover the holes seems pretty foolproof, which is
exactly the sort of method I need. Thanks.
Depends on the sensor. I have one that is adjustable for wall
density and it will pick up a 2X4 block on the back of a 2X4.. Adjusts
for 1/2", 1" or 1 1/2" thick plaster walls. Doesn't really care too
much about metal lath. Made by (or for) Stanley
Drill with the 1/16 bit. 2 inched max depth. Sound the holes with a
3" pin. If it stops at 2", you are in a stud. If it goes farther than
2", you are not.
Brilliant idea. I may find this for use sometime. WW
On Saturday, February 9, 2013 6:16:55 AM UTC-8, Greg Guarino wrote:
If there is no insulation in the wall cavity, I've had luck with the follow
Drill a 1/8" hole, bend a coat wire into two 90° angles (z shaped), inser
t one leg into the hole and rotate the wire. When you hit a stud, the oute
r identical leg, will show you where the edge of the stud is located. May
require more than one hole.
Damn! You go, G.W.
Somebody build another box, so G.W. can think outside of it.
Two good suggestions! That's why I love this group. There ALWAYS seems
to be another way to do something and, if there is, you'll read it here.
To expand on Leon's idea a bit, the object is to provide a
secure railing to a plastered wall with unknown stud locations.
Rather than use a 1x4, use a 1x8 oak board attached to the
wall with two rows of 1/4" molly boats on 8" centers.
The board provides the structure to mount the rail while also
spreading the rail load across a larger surface thus reducing
the load any specific molly carries.
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