I hope to buy an air operated staple gun tomorrow. My primary use will be
to fasten screen wire and soffit boards around the perimeter of the storage
shed for ventalation. Harbor freight has them as cheap as $19.95. I am
looking at the 1/4" crown style. Any suggestions? Gauge?
Arrow T50 style is very handy.
1/4" crown style sucks for things like plastic, tarpaper, and upholstery.
T T50 staple has a nice beefy gauge for holing soft goods.
I have both and use my Airy T50 style at least as often as my 1/4
Thanks. I have to manual staplers already for light weight stuff. The
stapler that I am looking at has depth control. I really need something
that will go through plywood or hard board and hold better than my finish
Probably will go exterior 1/4 plywood for the soffits as my experience is
that it holds up better to moisture in the Houston area. I'll agree that
the hard board surface is best not penetrated by the head of a fastener for
long term holding. Off and on I do residential repair work when not
building custom furniture and find that the 1/4" staples hold their own with
wood applications. I have had to remove plenty of trim pieces with staples.
I have been using a finish nailer for 15 years and the heads just don't have
the grab when there is a constant weight pulling on them.
I agree, I have the HF stapler, and while its worth the price I paid and
would recomend to anyone for occational use. The 1/4" staples are worthless
for light material, i thought to use it for insullation, Ummmm..no joy! so I
bought a hand t50.
For fastening trim such as soffit boards, a narrow-crown stapler such
as you describe should work well. The boards are thick enough to allow
the staples to countersink.
For fastening screen wire, these staples will probably just blow a
hole in the screen wire without actually fastening the screen wire to
the frame. It's too much power for that application directly to the
screen wire. Might get by if the stapler has adjustable depth control.
The alternatives are:
1. use a spring-powered stapler such as the Arrow T-50 or a
hammer-tacker such as the HT50A.
2. use a metal or wood strip over the screen wire perimeter to prevent
overpenetration of the narrow-crown staples
A pneumatic upholstery stapler might work for this application if
reduced to the lowest pressure which will cycle the driver blade.
It will depend on the frame wood type.
On Mon, 24 May 2004 22:22:53 GMT, "Leon"
I have thought about the staple going through the screen and am considering
the adjustable depth one for that reason. I can restaple if necessary as
the staples will be covered and screen tightness will not be an issue.
I do have a couple of spring powered staplers but wanted to speed up the
That is eventually how the edges of the screen are going to be finished off.
I was needing to temporarly hold the screen until I fasten the border that
will cover the edges of the screen.
On Tue, 25 May 2004 11:52:26 GMT, "Leon"
|> For fastening trim such as soffit boards, a narrow-crown stapler such|> as you describe should work well. The boards are thick enough to allow|> the staples to countersink.|> For fastening screen wire, these staples will probably just blow a|> hole in the screen wire without actually fastening the screen wire to|> the frame. It's too much power for that application directly to the|> screen wire. Might get by if the stapler has adjustable depth control.
|I have thought about the staple going through the screen and am considering
|the adjustable depth one for that reason. I can restaple if necessary as
|the staples will be covered and screen tightness will not be an issue.
I have the Porter-Cable NS150 and I have used it to fasten poultry
wire ("chicken wire") fencing around the wife's garden with good
success. Fiddle with the depth setting and air pressure and you'll be
That said, I also have a 1999 Mallard by Fleetwood 5th wheel travel
trailer that I just repaired too. The bozos at Fleetwood used narrow
crown staples to attach the aluminum siding, but drove the staples
completely through the aluminum and I had a sheet peel off at 65 mph.
(Fleetwood finally agreed that it was a birth defect but refused to
fix it because the warranty has expired.) Bastards.
I ended up with the 40072 from HF. $20. I can adjust the depth to Just
above the surface of the wood without toughing the wood. I may go with a HD
hardware cloth instead of screen wire for the soffit vents. I'll probably
seldom use this tool but if it holds out for this 1 job, I'll be happy. If
I become addected to it i may get a better one.
Geez... seems like any staple on aluminum would simply be a temporary fix
until you could use screws to fasten it better.
Thanks for the comments
I understand your concern and reasoning however the use of this gun to
temporarily hold the screen in place for a few hours at most. I will cover
the edges of the screen and staples with the soffit board to permanently
hold everything in place. The staples in the screen will be to just hold it
from falling off the bottom side of the extended joists while I attach the
soffits panels over the screen.
They seem to come in three flavors:
(a) Fairly small using narrow crown up to about 1"
(b) Small/Medium using narrow crown to to around 1.5"
(c) Major league that shoot them whoppers up to 2" long.
I have the smaller one and love it.. I also have a Bostich
that shoots the larger ones up to 1.75" in length.
Putting backs in cabinets is MUCH better with staples
in my opinion.
I don't buy from Harbor Freight, so no comments.
1.5" is a nice length. Terrific for assembly of items where the holes are not an
issue. Most of my shop is held together with these staples and TiteBond Glue.
I wouldn't waste money buying a gun that shoots only up to one inch.
Better to buy a gun like an Airy that shoots a T50 staple to 9/16ths.
They hold much much better and work exceptionally well with thin materials.
I got one that shoots 3/8" to 1-5/8" long. Tried a 1-1/2" long staple in
the edge of a piece of poplar and the staple disappeared. I adjusted the
depth and left the a 1/2" and 1-1/2" staple just above the surface of the
While my single reason for this gun is to attach soffit panels I may get
more mileage from my $20. gun for cabinet backs also.
Since I make my living doing woodworking I steer towards the better tools.
My other air nailers are Senco's. But for a one use tool I felt $20 was not
too much to risk.
Thanks for the comments.
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