I am trying to joint some 72" long Ash planks. I have a 6" Craftsman jointer
(their benchtop model). I have jointed short pieces of hardwood, but these
longer pieces are not working out so well. In fact I have ruined a very nice
piece of wood.
Can someone explain the best way of jointing these longer boards to me?
Buying a larger jointer is not an option at this point and I really want to
use this beautiful Ash wood.
On Mon, 24 May 2004 16:45:31 -0500, Tod Weber wrote:
Assuming you really need your final pieces to be nearly 72" long and you
are jointing for glueup and not flattening, a router with a straight bit
run between the two pieces to be glued up will produce a perfect glue
joint. Of course, you must clamp the two pieces to scrap so that they
are about 1/8" to 1/4" less apart than the router bit width at the
widest gap and use a straight edge clamped to the whole mess to guide the
router so that 1/16" to 1/8" will be taken from each edge in one pass.
If your final dimensions are much less than 72", rough cut the work
slightly longer than the final dimension before jointing.
"A government that robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support
of Paul." - George Bernard Shaw
1) Sight the edge to be joined and determine high spots.
2) Remove high spots to approximate straight edge. I prefer to take the
concave edge, remove the ends by straddling the knives near the middle, then
joining out both ends. You can do convex edges, too, but they demand a bit
of forbearance, You take short passes JUST over the middle, lifting before
3) Join the full edge.
First, it isn't going to happen on a bench top jointer unless you get
extremely lucky. So forget that. Rule of thumb for length of stock is 1 1/2
times the length of the bed.
The best way to accomplish the job if you do not have a jointer with
sufficient bed length is to use a hand plane.
I also have a toy jointer. No way it will ever do 72".
What I have done successfully with 50" (never tried longer) is to rip a
edge, and then run it on the jointer set to 1/32nd. It works fine, assuming
you have a table saw that cuts straight.
I've done this many a time on a 4' long, 6" jointer.
Use some sort of support at each end, like a roller stand. Remove the
obvious high parts from either the convex or concave end by jointing
only those areas, with the jointer or a hand plane. The last step is
to joint the whole board.
Be very careful attempting to rip a curved board on the tablesaw. As
different parts of the board touch the fence, ugly things can happen,
in a hurry.
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