D&R Saw and Tool Dallas, TX
Precision Tool & Construction Tucson, AZ. I had planer and jointer
blades sharpened there last summer. a) They didn't remove the wire from
the blade, b) The blades weren't even placed in the fixture straight,
the machining was significantly crooked. I'm going to have to have
these things re-sharpened just to use them. Pointing out my concerns to
the guy at PT&C -- he didn't seem to see anything wrong.
Actually, the original question was:
"If you know of a good local sharpening service respond by
giving the name of the service and where they are located
(city and state please)."
The whole point of the thread was/is for people to tell
other people where they can get good service. That should
at least eliminate the trial and error.
Now go and start a thread on "When Will I Know My Saw
Needs To Be Sharpened". It's OK, people start threads all
Fair bust! And I'm benefiting from your original question!
Ok! Again, I plan on using one of these folks.
:) OK - but I was asking "How Do I Know That Acme Sharpening Inc, is
Admittedly, (and as you proll'y suspected) I don't know my back-side from a
carbide tip in this area!
Acme could hand me back a big a$$, 10" washer, with Black Sharpie marks and
I probably would leave the store happy until I tried to mount it.
You guys are smart!
Just wondering if the proof is in the cutting, or if you have *another*
secret handshake with Sharpening Services that avoids 10" washers coming
back. You know - that Cabal thing...
Now 'scuse me while I start another thread.
Got a question about Anteaters that's been bothering me.
Here's are a few things to look for:
Inspect each blade visually to make sure that there aren't any chips
on the face, sides or top of any teeth, and that there are not any
cracks in the carbide. (To make sure the sharpener checked them and
didn't just run the sucker)
If you get teeth replaced, check the weld to make sure it is solid,
and that the steel behind the carbide is not discolored. If it is
blued, the tooth in question may have lost it's temper, and you could
lose the tip right away. It might be ok, but why risk it if you have
a choice? You can also look at the bottom of the face where there is
usually a small bevel, and make sure it is perpendicular to the blade
itself. Carbide is only strong in one direction, and it should be
oriented properly. Even if the orientation is good enough to work, a
sloppy mounting is not a good sign.
Get a micrometer and measure each tooth to make sure that the teeth
are consistant. If you get a dial mic with a post, you can mount your
blade on a spindle and turn it to check for consistancy- a decent
sharpening should stay within a range of 1-2 mils on the top and
sides, or else your teeth will wear unevenly. New blades are
generally not this precise, but if you're having them professionally
done, you should expect better specs. Be advised that some blade
styles have different tooth heights to increase performance: for
example- a miter blade has teeth in groups of 5, four of them
alternately bevel and should be the same height, but the fifth is flat
and should be 10-15 mils lower, since it's only funtion is to knock
off the v-shaped tip inside the cut. If it is the same height, it
will be doing far too much of the work, and will chip quickly. A
triple-chip blade alternates between a tooth with beveled corners and
flat teeth. The beveled teeth should be 10-15 mils higher than the
And of course, it may seem obvious, but make sure it isn't just
cheaper to buy a new blade- sometimes sharpening is just too
expensive, especially if you need teeth replaced or the blade is
I'd like to find on around the St. Louis area. I'm south of St. Louis about
100 miles and there is nothing in this area that I've been able to find so
since we drive to St. Louis about every month or so finding a good
sharpening service up in that area would be great.
Bay Area Carbide
I'd be surprised if they have a web site. They don't look like that kind
They helped me, a relative newbie to precision woodworking, get the right
products and services, and at a fair price.
The are good supporters of the local woodworking club, as well as the adult
education woodworking classes.
People who know a heck of a lot more about cutting edges than I do
recommend their serices.
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