I'm going to build a router table. I've already rounded up the T Track, insert, plexiglass guard, etc.
It occurred to me that it might be time for me to get a 1/2" router.
Any special features it should have, or not have? I think I'd leave it in the table and do any freehand routing with a quarter inch router, which I already have.
Any suggestions as to some good choices would be greatly appreciated.
I am *really* pleased with my Milwaukee 5625-20.
I have the Milwaukee 5619-20 and really like it as well. I do have a PC 7529 that is for the router table but in quality the Milwaukee is a much better unit.
Allen
Ditto on the Milwaukee. Any of them 'cept the 1-3/4 HP model. Give that Ridgid a look. I'm quite happy with mine. Good value.
This Ridgid:
Robatoy wrote in news:04c9c2e2-a427-49e3-8231- snipped-for-privacy@j18g2000yqd.googlegroups.com:
reasonably long power cord. There's two LEDs mounted just above the bit that are a really nice feature. FWIW, the fixed base does dust collection well, while the plunge base does not do it as well.
The fixed base has a hole for a handle in case you decide to mount it in a table. It's to allow height adjustments above the table. I have not mounted my router in a table, so I don't know how well it works.
Puckdropper
RE: Subject
What is the lastest from Pat Warner?
Last time around, think it was a Milwaukee 5625.
Lew
Regardless of brand you will get the most bang for your buck if you buy a router that is easily adjusted and affords bit removal from above the table WITH OUT involving a 3rd party lift mechanism.
I personally have and like the bigger Triton router, PC, and DeWalt have valid offerings in this catagory also.
That is an excellent router, no doubt.
First choice, for table duty, (aside from the obvious choice of a shaper) would be a Milwaukee 5625 for me. If money was no object, the 2000 watt Festool, just to piss off the lesser woodworkers. Still, if I were to do any serious amount of table routing, a shaper. just a 1.5 HP 3/4" because by the time you do all the math, table, router, lift, time.... a shaper is the same money and a LOT quieter plus you get to use your router bits. But that's just me.
I especially like my DeWalt because the body doesn't rotate as it is raised or lowered. That means the on/off switch is always in the same place. That's not true of some others in looked at.
It also has a little slop built into the screws that fasten the base on, this allowing for centering adjustment. And a centering bit is included. Not so important for table use, but nice for hand held.
BTW, I remember the smaller Triton getting better reviews than the larger, but that was probably six models back.
And to the OP, ignore the horsepower ratings. Check the amps instead. For example, I know of 3 mini-lathes with the same amperage and 3 different horsepower ratings :-).
This is true for all plunge routers that I have seen.
Mine's dedicated to the table, and will -- fairly soon -- get a Woodpecker PRL5625 to play elevator for it.
It's just a BEAST of a router, in terms of strength. I'm fairly sure I could use it to route profiles in titanium, if I really wanted to.
It would be great if I didn't need to go under the table to lock it in, but ... the PRL should take away that gripe -- an exceptionally minor one, and the only one I have with the 5625.
Sorry. Link to obligatory picture of 5625, living happily upside down:
Yes, it certainly is.
You don't talk about your budget.
Ideally, you want the heaviest duty fixed base router for your table, such as the Milwaukee 5625-20. 15 Amps, "3-1/2 HP", $271 at Amazon. You can adjust the height from above the table.
What, too much money? What a lot of people do is get a kit, where one motor works with a plunge base and a fixed base. This does provide more hand held versatility at a lower cost. That will be something like $225 for 12 Amps, "2-1/4 HP". I have a kit and I have an extra fixed base mounted to my router table. The table base stays put while the router may be used hand held.
You can get expert advice at
On Oct 4, 2:50=A0pm, Jim Weisgram
Of course, you're correct.
But I think you (and some others) did the right thing, AND gave some great advice:
A table router -- particularly if you're going to be using it for hand- held routing, too -- is one of the three or four most commonly used tools in most shops (no science -- just my edu-ma-cated guess).
It's a great place to buy all the tool you can afford, IMHO.
When we're talking about high-end Porter-Cables, Milwaukees, Bosches, Tritons, Freuds, Hitachis, and a few other brands ... the price ranges are pretty tightly clustered, and they're pretty much all beloved by their users.
The gap between an exceptional table saw and a very good table saw might be about a grand.
Might be.
But the difference between an exceptional router and a very good router might be about a hundred bucks. Maybe a little more.
This wouldn't be a place to save pennies, IMHO.
On another forum, somebody was hawking a Harbor Freight router ... and pretty hard.
Not me. Not this ol' southern boy. Nuh-uh :-)
About a year or so ago, I asked the same questions and had the same concerns as you have. I bought the Milwaukee 5625-20. Very pleased.
Sonny
I'm not talking about a plunge router :-).
The PC 690's switch doesn't move; the base moves. ;-) I have the "D" handle base so it's even better in this regard. The switch is always under the index finger. I don't use it in a table, though.
Amps are only slightly more meaningful than the obviously bogus HP ratings. Customer feedback is a better gauge, IMO.
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