Router table recommendations

[Ralph Compton]

I have only recentlydiscovered router tables but wasn't sure I really needed one. So I picked up an inexpensive Ryobi at HD and put my old Craftsman router on it. WELL, I have learned how valuable and versatile a RT can be and not I more fully understand why a good one is better than a not-as-good one.

I upgraded my router to a PC with the controls that I can raise, lower, and lock it from the table top. Now I need to upgrade the table.

Price is an object but so is quality. Larger is nice but the largest and best won't fit either my garage shop or my budget. Kreg looks nice and would probably fit my needs and budget but I need a tabletop unit so that I can build a cabinet under it. Either that or just a table itself and build the whole stand, cabinet, etc.

Important to me is a good, solid, flat top with lots of easily obtained inserts. I think.

Suggestions on what I should consider will be appreciated.

Anyone want a hardly-used Ryobi cheap?

Ralph

[Lew Hodgett]

RE: Build one.

I built Norm's from the NYW.

Plans are still available.

Lew

[Dave Balderstone]

Just build one. Melamine covered termite spit works fine, and is relatively cheap.

[Ed Pawlowski]

Bench Dog. I love mine.

You can buy a top, you can buy a table top model, you can buy a complete model.

[Gramp's shop]

I built mine using 3/4 inch melamine covered MDF from the local big box, added a split fence from Harbor Freight and got an aluminum insert at one of the woodworking shows. Total cost about $70. I work out of a single stall in my garage, so most of my stuff is on wheels.

Larry

[SonomaProducts.com]

Look at Rockler, Woodcraft and Woodpeckers.com

You can buy just a plate to hold your router and build the table op yourself out of melamine ply or plastic laminate on ply. Or you can buy a top, several sizes available. Can also build or buy a fence I have the big Woodpecker, a sidwinder lift and super fence setup and absolutley love it

[Max]

Ditto. I made a few modifications. And I painted it to match my Jet planer and the jointer.

[willshak]

Max wrote the following:

That's beautiful. I would keep that in my bathroom. :-)

[Larry Jaques]

wont to do.

Now put a base in there which leaves the DC tube opening flush with the bottom and slanted sides which funnel the dust to the center and you're all set.

-- Shake off all the fears of servile prejudices, under which weak minds are servilely crouched. Fix reason firmly in her seat, and call on her tribunal for every fact, every opinion. Question with boldness even the existence of a God; because, if there be one, he must more approve of the homage of reason than that of blindfolded fear. -- Thomas Jefferson

[knuttle]

Comment to Original Poster.

If you have not done biscuit with on the router table, you have not lived. I have a slot cutter that I use with the router table and make a lot of picture frames. It takes a minute to set up the fence and cutter height to get the slot in the right position in the miter. Once set up, you can cut a couple of dozen biscuit slots, in a couple of minutes. Much faster the a biscuit cutter.

Comment on Color. Several years ago I made a work bench and instead of paint, I varnished it. That was about 15 years ago and it still looks good. 15 year old paint on wood starts to look shabby as it gets dirty and dinged.

[Max]

"Larry Jaques" ,

"Max" wrote:

Sweetly done, Max. And not painted _gray_, as far too many folks are > wont to do.

Close compromise:

[routerman]

[Leon]

works great.

[Leon]

Vs. wood colored, dirty, and dinged? :~)

[Larry Blanchard]

Well, JessEm is the best but they are spendy. As others have suggested, it's not that hard to build one. Google "router table plans"

Since you have a small shop, there are a couple of alternatives you might want to consider. One is a table that replaces one of the wings on your table saw. I had one like that for years and it worked fine. Then I went with a different saw with no wings. What I have now is a table top I got from MLCS (Icould have made one) mounted on folding brackets attached to one end of a tool stand. Either would save you space.

If you decide to buy rather than build, check out this website:

[knuttle]

I applied SPECIAL varnish ;-)

[Leon]

Ahhhhhhh I see LOL

[Max]

This is what I used:

[Larry Jaques]

of the bin? How about adding an inner tube with open bottom so it would clear the bin for you? Even a 90-degree elbow would work.

This style is best.

I don't remember where I saw the angled bin bottom, maybe an old Woodsmith mag or sumpin', but they're out there.

-- Shake off all the fears of servile prejudices, under which weak minds are servilely crouched. Fix reason firmly in her seat, and call on her tribunal for every fact, every opinion. Question with boldness even the existence of a God; because, if there be one, he must more approve of the homage of reason than that of blindfolded fear. -- Thomas Jefferson

[Max]

"Larry Jaques" wrote,

"Max" wrote

Since I drilled several holes (after the picture was taken) in the bottom of the door the suction is strong enough to pretty well clear the bin. At least sufficiently to be able to change routers without encountering a lot of dust. Whenever I finish a project I vacuum out the "whole works".

Max