Router recommendations

I've narrowed my search down to a couple of routers, mostly based on price. Both seem to be at least fairly regarded. One is the Hitachi M12V that I can get for $161.00, and the Dewalt DW621 for $179.00. I realize the Hitachi is higher powered than the Dewalt, but as a non-pro (weekend putzer) I'm not sure if it is needed. On the other hand with the extra ponies it is still a tad cheaper. The router will be mounted in a table and will stay there. Anyone have any thoughts/recommendations/tales to tell on either of these. Thanks in advance,

Paul

hitachi.

PC690

"Paul in MN" wrote in :

I have the M12V which I got from Amazon with a sale special for $135. Thought I would only use it in a table but now use it for almost all jobs instead of my Craftsman Random Height Adjustment Router. I've read good things about the DW and I'm sure either would be fine. Hitachi doesn't have a dedicated 1/4" collet and uses an insert to accommodate those bits. If your using 1/2" bits primarily it's great.

Jerry

I just bought the Hitachi and have about an hour of or two of making sawdust with it. Even though it is a rather heavy beast, it is very easy to control. I actually find it easier to handle than my 1 HP

If you throw in a couple bits, you will hit the magical $199 that will qualify you for a $25 discount.

Mike

My suggestion is to know what you will be doing with it. If you decide at some point to make raised panel doors with the horizontal bits, or other tasks that use a large bits, then power and variable speed matters a lot. You can still do it with lower powered routers, but it will take a lot more passses. If you will only be doing profiles like roundovers, etc., then either will be fine. If this will be your only router, don't count on it staying in the table.

I know how important price is, but if at all possible don't let the price be as much of a guide as functionality.

Wayne

By the way, I tried making some raised panel doors with one of the large bits and I gotta tell ya, my Porter Cable 690 was not the tool. That big panel raising bit (3+ inches in dia) needed a lot more power and a lot less speed.

As having less women in your life is a key to happiness, having more than one router is, also.

Get yaself the beefy 3hp, variable speed routah fer the table and get yaself a sprightly job fer da other work that needs to be done.

Don't buy any router that only handles 1/4" bits.

Don't buy any routah that is less than a horsey and a half - anything below that is a trimmer and not fit for a rounded life.

I'm a Porter-Cable Dome Top guy myself, but it's not a religious issue with me and I also own a Dewalt 2hp ( but happen to think it's a pos in comparison).

Considerations, such as the availability of aftemarket appendages comes into the decision mix, and once again, I'd steer you towards the PC.

Don't set any store by the fact that it might be able to handle a 3/8" bit - I've never seen one in the wiild.

Regards, Tom.

Thomas J.Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.) tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)

dose either have a spindle lock, I got a makita, nice router, but it doesn't have a spindle lock and it's an endless source of frustration with the knuckle breaker wrench set up, especially in my table. it may be a little silly thing but I'm never getting router with out one EVER AGAIN!

set up. I may build my own instead of buying which will give me enough left over to buy another smaller unit as well. Thanks for all the info.

Paul

I have one of each. For years I used the 621 for both table and hand-held use. When I decided to get a second router for dedicated table use, I bought the more powerful Hitachi for the table and now use the smaller and lighter Dewalt for hand-held.

For strictly table use, either >I've narrowed my search down to a couple of routers, mostly based on price.

-- jc Published e-mail address is strictly for spam collection. If e-mailing me, please use jc631 at optonline dot net

I have two recommendations....

1. 1/2" shank plunge router is best in my opinion, you can always make it stationary, but you can't make a non plunge router into one. Being 1/2" you will have lots of power for using those large bits too.
2. Stay away from the Sears routers with the big "ring" that you have to screw to adjust the bit height. They are a real pain if you are trying to adjust the height from under a router table. The rings tend to be really hard to turn unless you are part WWF wrestler.

Todd

I whole heartedly support point 2. I had one of those for about 9 months now. I had to use a strap wrench to adjust the height. Last time I tried to adjust it ( after blowing out all of the sawdust with compressed air ) I spun the whole motor in the base. That did a job on the plastic.

Now, why on earth did I buy a craftsman, you ask. Well, I had one for 18 years and it was great. The bearing began to wear and the cut eas getting wavy. The craftsman was the only thing that fit my old router table. A couple of month later, I built a new table becaus the panel raising bit would not fit thru te opening of the old table. Craftsman router adjustment freezes up. Not a happy camper.

New insert and PC 7518 router due to be delivered by UPS on Friday. This, I hope, will be my last router for the forseeable future.

There's a pretty good comparison chart at

gear snipped-for-privacy@sympatico.ca (Todd) wrote in message [snip]

I have a stable of routers, some with spindle locks, some with dual wrenches.

dual wrenches wins every time in my shop.

Same here even in the table (mine is a small benchtop table) when I try to lock the spindle and then pull one wrench I have to hold the other hand on the table to keep it from scooting around.  I made mine tall enough to pull the motor out to change bits anyway and its impossible to hold still with one hand while pulling the wrench with the other.  Even in the router base you have to try to try to hold the router from moving while working the wrench, its a whole lot easier to put two wenches side by side squeeze them together with one hand while they both pull against each other with the same amount of leverage.  One of the reasons I replaced my sears router was because it had a spindle lock but didn't have the other nut to use two wrenches so to tighten it down I had to sit/lay on it sometimes (sears collets have to be real tight to keep the bit from moving).  I think all the reviewers who say routers need a spindle lock haven't changed enough bits to know what they are doing.