I have a Zanussi Jet System 1050 which is getting a bit noisy. I have had it in pieces and serviced the motor but the bearing is still a bit noisy. I can see the drum (plastic) splits in half but do not have a manual! Does anyone know if I can do a bearing replacement without removing the whole of the drum?
Thanks
I dont know the Zanussi but generally there is no need to remove the tub, but the drum must come out, since it is supported by the drum bearings.
I did a bearing change not long ago... never again. If it were just an ordinary washing machine I'd say forget it.
NT
Believe it or not we have exactly the same machine in exactly the same situation as yours, makes a hell of a noise when spinning. we got a quote from a guy to fix it but the cost of the parts and his time make repair uneconomical. Got a new machine ordered.
On Sat, 17 Mar 2007 12:06:57 -0000, "Scabbydug" mused:
Normaly about £65-85 for bearings and a service. Not usually uneconomical unless the machine is completely knackered.
On Sat, 17 Mar 2007 10:35:29 +0000, Peter Hemmings mused:
Neither do I. I've never done one with the drum still in the machine, as it only takes 5 mins to get the whole drum out once the machines is split and disassembled anyway.
It could be done, posssibly, but would take 5 times longer than taking the drum out so no point.
thanks for the replies, What was actually worrying me was how I supported the drum and outer casing before I split it. I took the rear outer case of the machine to check/maintain the motor and get a bit of oil into the rear bearing. If I then took the front casing off it would fall apart!! I assume to get at the screws that split the drum (that face forwards) I would need to remove the front casing? The problem would then be removing the bolt securing the rear of the bearing, which would be lying on the floor inside the back of the casing! Could someone advise the method of getting at the drum (should I decide to attempt bearing renewal? Thanks for your time
This doesnt make sense, I think maybe youve got your terms mixed up. The drum is the rotating thing you see when the door is opened. Surrounding this is a static water container called the tub. If you rewrite...
NT
OK, sorry about that:
What was actually worrying me was how I supported the drum and tub before I split it. I took the rear outer case of the machine to check/maintain the motor and get a bit of oil into the rear bearing on the back of the tub. If I then took the front casing off it would seem to fall apart!! I assume to get at the screws that split the tub (that face forwards) I would need to remove the front casing? The problem would then be removing the bolt securing the rear bearing onto the back of the drum shaft, which would be lying on the floor inside the back of the casing! That's assuming I had tp lye the machine on its rear casing. Could someone advise the method of getting at the tub (should I decide to attempt bearing renewal)?
I hope that's a bit clearer now
Regards
When I had to split the tub on my old Zanussi washer dryer (WDJ1294 ISTR) to replace the "tub seal" (between the two halves of the plastic tub, this is what I did:
The problem with the "split casing" is that unlike the "standard" construction there is not a strong 5-sided box with just a panel to remove on the back, instead there are two rather flimsy 4-sided halves - the bottom is a giant plastic moulding that they screw to. You have to take off either the front or back half, but NOT at the same time. It's good fun because you have to (based on what I worked out for myself):
-Take the top off
- Lay the thing down before it gets too flimsy and disconnect any hoses underneath, e.g. things that connect to the pumps
-Take the back half off
-undo all hoses and cables and stuff that you can see, and all the rear counterweights if you are going for a full tub removal
-undo the front half fixings
- replace the back half but not screw it on - ths keeps the flimsy internal "frame" supported while you take the front off
- undo the seal and stuff round the door so you can get at some of the front bits, door lock etc
- keeping the innards supported on the rear case half, remove the front
- remove the front counterweight
- remove any hoses and stuff accessible from the front
- probably put the front back on and remove the back so you can undo the "shock absorbers" and springs that the tub is suspended from
- lower the tub gently and if you are lucky, get it out through the back (if you have got enough hoses out of the way)
As Haynes says - reassembly is the reverse of the above!
All this could be totally wrong, although it worked for me. I'd be interested in how "Lurch" can get one out in 5 minutes!
Annoyingly, when I got the whole tub out, it turned out that the reason for the leak was that a few of the (many) screws joining the two halves of the tub had not been tightened fully it seemed. Tightening would probably have done the job but by then I was committed so I changed the seal anyway.
Worked well for a few months before the bearings went. I got the bearings, and some bearing pullers, but before I got up the enthusiasm to do the job, the motor went. Ho hum. That was it - replaced it with a more modern Zanussi, which is going stong.
I took loads of photos at the time but never got around to posting them anywhere. Maybe I'll have another go some time.
Good luck!
Simon.
Yes, much. I dont know how yours disassembles, but you sure dont need to worry about support. The drum is subject to enormous forces during operation, and the tub to some extent too. Theyre very robust components.
NT
Thanks very much for the detailed description - that was exactly what I was on about! Even though mine is not a wash/dryer, it your description fits exactly. I was wondering how to support it/do I have to take both front/back cases off, and it is now crystal clear. Thanks
its always the way!
Do you happen to know if it essential to have "pullers" or could they be levered out!
Thanks again for your detailed reply.
BTW I was told by 2 local spares shops that there were no spare brushes for my model motor, but while googling today found them for £18 including vat and postage! Just shows what you can find! (mine were OK though when I dismantled the motor)
Hi again,
Sorry I didn't actually get to the removing the bearing stage (as the motor went) so I never discovered how essential pullers are. I got a cheap set and later sold them on ebay as I can't think of many other uses for them.
One thing I would suggest - if you are splitting the "tub" it's well worth replacing the seal between the two halves - with the huge project of stripping the whole thing down it would be very annoying to introduce a slight leak that would of course only be discovered when you get it all powered up again.
Good luck! Simon.
snip
OK
I got a cheap set and
Yep, for the cost its not worth the risk!
Thanks - its noisy but not too noisy ATM to make it a priority task!
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