Wiring Question - moving a 30amp socket

Apr 20, 2004 5 Replies
L

I'm certain that this question has been posted many times, but many of the threads are either old or ambiguous.



Problem.



I have a 30amp, ring main double socket outlet which was installed high up on the wall behind a tall larder unit.



The larder and built-in fridge & freezer are being replaced by a free-standing fridge/freezer and necessitates the installation of a socket at normal skirting board level.



Access to the floor above is likely to prove difficult (laminate flooring). There is no nearby suitable 30amp outlet that would enable the ring main to be extended. The use of junction boxes would be too unsightly.



Proposal.



Switch off mains and isolate ring, check/test etc.



Using the existing 30amp socket box, remove the switch plate, extend the 2*twin core & earth cables in a chase from the bottom of the box, vertically down to the new location. (lateral movement is not needed). Connect the cables using 30amp rated connector blocks and replace the face-plate with a more aesthetically satisfactory blank, white cover.



Questions.



Is it practical, is it safe and is it legal?



Any advice appreciated.


Vote
Twitter Facebook LinkedIn
A

This is fine provided that the white cover remains accessible.

If it won't be, then crimp connectors should be used for the connections.

.andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

Vote
Twitter Facebook LinkedIn
L

On 20 Apr 2004 15:46:59 -0700, in uk.d-i-y snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (leaky_caldron) strung together this:

You only actually need one 2.5mm cable spurred off the existing to the new socket, as long as there is only one though.

That's fine. You could leave the socket connected if it's not in any danger where it is and just have the lower one as a spur off the existing.

Vote
Twitter Facebook LinkedIn
C

That's fine, but you only need to send one cable down to the new socket. This would count as a spur.

Christian.

Vote
Twitter Facebook LinkedIn
P

True, but arranging the wiring might actually be easier by jointing the two cables to loop in an extra length. You could crimp on new lengths to both cables then bury them (crimped connections don't require accessability to be maintained).

If you joint the cables so that only one is taken down then you are into some sort of terminal block (or henley block?) arrangement, which requires accessability to be maintained. You can't crimp two into one AFAIK.

PoP

Vote
Twitter Facebook LinkedIn
C

Certainly. However, I was under the impression that the old box would be obscured as it is behind the new appliance. In that case, leaving it as a junction box is advantageous as it allows the work to be reversed should the integrated appliance be put back in.

Christian.

Vote
Twitter Facebook LinkedIn

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required